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  #1  
Old 01-08-2022, 08:35 PM
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Farmall450 Farmall450 is offline
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Default Stuck PTO Bearing

When I put the #450 blower on the 1811 I noticed the PTO bolt missing. Thinking nothing of it, I ordered the fancy washer and bolt and put them on today.

Now the blower cranks with the engine. It appears this bearing is froze?

That's a first for me. It's on there pretty good...I mowed without the bolt when I first got it, and the previous owner had for some time. Someone must have taken the bolt out to regain function?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1811 PTO.jpg (34.2 KB, 116 views)
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1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2022, 05:41 AM
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I've got one on an 1863 that needs a new bearing. I've tried to get it off twice but both times ended up using a grease needle to put some grease in it and it starts working again. Mine is the old style that bolts to the block. I'm afraid that my choices are to add a little grease every now and then or destroy it getting it off.
Cannon
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Old 01-09-2022, 07:43 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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The 1811 uses the 917-3044 PTO clutch assembly. There is the "non-replaceable" bearing on that assembly. However, it can be replaced if you are inclined to do so. Take something like a Dremel Tool, and grind away the three "stamped dimples", thus allowing the bearing to be removed. Go to a Bearing Supply Store and purchase a replacement. Install new bearing and you can try and "re-dimple" or used a MIG welder to install a couple of "spot welds" to hold bearing in place.

You can always buy a replace PTO Clutch Assembly from Cub Cadet or third party vendors (ie: Xtreme PTO's).
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File Type: jpg 917-3044.jpg (28.5 KB, 101 views)
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Old 01-09-2022, 08:19 AM
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I'd investigate why adding the retaining bolt bolt locks up the clutch.
Several reasons that could happen:
One would be the washer is too large and touching the outer diameter of the bearing.
Another is the spacer in the clutch isn't correct, or too short.
some clutches had 2 different spacers, and I don't remember if your paticular clutch is one of them.
And yes, as others have said, it could be the bearing is locked up.
just something to muddy the waters while you have the clutch removed determining the cause.
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Old 01-09-2022, 09:55 AM
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Hopefully you can get the PTO off without damaging it. I replace all my bearings with the cheapo China bearings and never had one fail yet. It should be a 6206 double sealed. If you get the PTO off just take a large socket and tap out the old bearing. I don't bother grinding down the dimples that hold the bearing in place. It will drive out pretty easy. I hold the PTO in one hand and hammer with the other so I don't damage it.

This should be your bearing. There is a spacer inside the inner race you will need to reuse.
https://www.amazon.com/XiKe-6206-2RS...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

With the old bearing removed, sand the inside clean and wipe down the inside where the bearing goes and also the new bearing with lacquer thinner. When you get the new bearing started in the PTO about 1/4" take some red Loctite and run a bead around the outside of the new bearing and drive it on home. The Loctite will keep it in place so I don't even try to re-dimple it.

This post may help you.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=24413

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Edit****** That looks like an aftermarket clutch. Can you post a better pic?
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Old 01-09-2022, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
The 1811 uses the 917-3044 PTO clutch assembly. There is the "non-replaceable" bearing on that assembly. However, it can be replaced if you are inclined to do so. Take something like a Dremel Tool, and grind away the three "stamped dimples", thus allowing the bearing to be removed. Go to a Bearing Supply Store and purchase a replacement. Install new bearing and you can try and "re-dimple" or used a MIG welder to install a couple of "spot welds" to hold bearing in place.

You can always buy a replace PTO Clutch Assembly from Cub Cadet or third party vendors (ie: Xtreme PTO's).
I would probably do an aftermarket one. CC wants like $800 bucks

My plan is to pull that front bearing. I didn't see any dimples stopping me from pulling it out (forward) as installed?
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1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck
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Old 01-09-2022, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
I'd investigate why adding the retaining bolt bolt locks up the clutch.
Several reasons that could happen:
One would be the washer is too large and touching the outer diameter of the bearing.
Another is the spacer in the clutch isn't correct, or too short.
some clutches had 2 different spacers, and I don't remember if your paticular clutch is one of them.

And yes, as others have said, it could be the bearing is locked up.
just something to muddy the waters while you have the clutch removed determining the cause.
Well, I think the bearing is why. The MTD bolt and washer clamp down on the inner race, which in turn locks it to the engine. Loosen bolt, and it's fine, pto works as it should. I'm not sure how I'd verify this part.

I guess my thinking here is the bearing is locked. I did toy with the idea of pulling of the seal/shield and greasing it, since it's accessible.
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Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall?
1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck
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Old 01-09-2022, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannon51 View Post
I've got one on an 1863 that needs a new bearing. I've tried to get it off twice but both times ended up using a grease needle to put some grease in it and it starts working again. Mine is the old style that bolts to the block. I'm afraid that my choices are to add a little grease every now and then or destroy it getting it off.
Cannon
I seriously considered pulling off the seal/shield and doing exactly that. Might give it a go before messing with it, as it's obviously stuck on there pretty good seeing as it was being used without the retaining bolt for some time.
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Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall?
1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2022, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
Hopefully you can get the PTO off without damaging it. I replace all my bearings with the cheapo China bearings and never had one fail yet. It should be a 6206 double sealed. If you get the PTO off just take a large socket and tap out the old bearing. I don't bother grinding down the dimples that hold the bearing in place. It will drive out pretty easy. I hold the PTO in one hand and hammer with the other so I don't damage it.

This should be your bearing. There is a spacer inside the inner race you will need to reuse.
https://www.amazon.com/XiKe-6206-2RS...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

With the old bearing removed, sand the inside clean and wipe down the inside where the bearing goes and also the new bearing with lacquer thinner. When you get the new bearing started in the PTO about 1/4" take some red Loctite and run a bead around the outside of the new bearing and drive it on home. The Loctite will keep it in place so I don't even try to re-dimple it.

This post may help you.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=24413

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Edit****** That looks like an aftermarket clutch. Can you post a better pic?
Here are some better pictures I have. Washer seems to fit right where I'd think it should, and is the actual P/N MTD calls for.

I was hoping to soundboard you guys first, because I don't have another cub with a similar looking PTO at the shop. The 2182 seems to have a similar setup with the fat washer.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1811 PTO Light.jpg (33.8 KB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg 1811 PTO with bolt.jpg (27.4 KB, 94 views)
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Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall?
1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2022, 11:02 AM
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A lot of PB and patience will get that off. Then replace the bearing. BTDT
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