Axle Seal Leak

BKsCC · #1 09-24-2022, 08:58 PM

When one problem spawns another (somehow).

Had a dry rotted tire finally stop holding air, so pulled my rear tires off to get new ones mounted on the rims. I swear all I did was pop the lug bolts out and remove the tires! Came into the garage next day to a puddle of hy-tran leaking from behind my right side brake rotor! Why does this stuff always happen to me?

Guess it's new axle seal time.

While I pull the rear end apart to pull the axles out, is there anything else I should consider swapping out or replacing in there while I'm spending the money to replace the hydraulic fluid and filter?

Thanks!

R Bedell · #2 09-25-2022, 06:18 AM

What model of Cub Cadet are you working on ??

BKsCC · #3 09-25-2022, 02:13 PM

Yeah that would help wouldn't it? It's a 149.

I reckon I oughta change the bearings while I'm in there too but then I gotta get a set of bearing pullers, pushing this $100 job even higher.

149Chris · #4 10-01-2022, 10:16 AM

I did the seals on my 149 at the same time that I relined the brakes. Seals & lining were on the same order. Obviously you only need two seals per tractor but I was doing a 1650 restore too!

BKsCC · #5 10-02-2022, 01:01 PM

There's still tons of meat left on my brake liners, don't fancy having to do those!

I ordered the bearings and will do them while I'm in there. Cheap insurance.

BKsCC · #6 10-02-2022, 06:24 PM

Hoo boy this got a little more spicy now that I opened it up!

I removed the brakes and the first thing I noticed was the side with the leak's axle was being held in place by the brake mounting, not the C-clip in the diff. Came right out in my hand!

Then I drained the hy-tran...

The axle looked ok. Little bit of indication there's been a lot of heat in the bearing though. Bearing itself felt fine, but when I put my finger on it the needle bearings were loose.

I scooped and squeegeed out the hytran from the diff that wouldnt drain with a gloved hand. Uncovered the missing C-clip. How does that even fall off??? It appeared undamaged.

The diff plate and the nooks and crannies were covered in what appeared to be a white granular goop, much like the undissolved sugar in the bottom of a glass of sweet tea. Is that just indicative of old hytran with a little but not catastrophic amounts of water?

So before I do ANYTHING else, what should I be thinking? I'm not going to hose anything out with brake clean, but I am going to try and get all the sugar out of there.

finsruskw · #7 10-02-2022, 07:31 PM

Chances are whoever was in there before you had removed the C clip and when re-installing it did not get it fully seated in its groove and it popped off once he had buttoned it up and stated using it and did not realize it.
That would be my best guess anyway.
That is a pretty stout clip and it takes some force to get it back on IIRC.

Tom Dowling · #8 10-02-2022, 08:20 PM

I'm pretty sure Hytran does that sugar thing with moisture and appears to be working since there doesn't seem to be any rust. It doesn't look too dirty to me, as long as you don't find metal shavings in there you should be fine, clean it and close it,, after you're sure you have that c-clip on all the way.

BKsCC · #9 10-02-2022, 09:11 PM

I have new C-clips, seals, and bearings for both sides on the way. Since I'm already having to replace the hytran I'm making it worth my while.

When I go to replace the axle bearings, is there a natural "stop" machined into the axle housing that I just press them into position against, or do I need to measure where to stop pressing them in?

Good to know the sugar is normal. I'm guessing it's not been replaced in years.

Since I have the whole system open and it's currently drained, plus a replacement filter going on there, am I going to have to bleed the air out of the hydro when I close it all up again or is that going to work itself out since the whole back end isn't strictly speaking air tight when sealed?

Wild Bill · #10 10-03-2022, 11:01 PM

If the fluid was true Hytran, any moisture would only be under the ring gear/at the bottom of the case, and would be a gray slime....not a white color or gritty like sugar.

Once you get everything buttoned up, the full capacity is 7qts, filled trough the plug in the differential cover. Fill it until Hytran starts coming out of the hole. Reinstall the plug, start the engine and cycle the hydro lift a few times. Shut the engine off, and pull the differential cover plug, and top off if needed.