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#11
10-03-2022, 10:07 PM
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There are several things you can check, trying to find the cause of the vibration.
Check the tightness of the: Frame to transaxle bolts Frame to nose/grill bolts. Fender pan/foot rest to frame bolts. Any of those being loose can send vibrations into the frame. Did you check for a driveshaft spiral pin being 1/2 way sheared, or loose bolts at the flex couplings? Take the spark plugs out, and take the plug wires off. Then turn the driveshaft connector hub on the back of the engine of Hold your thumb over the spark plug holes while manually turning the crankshaft.. If everything in that cylinder is OK-you will have air forcing it's way out of the spark plug hole as the piston comes up the bore. If you have a broken rod/valve spring-you will not have air pushing up on your thumb.
__________________
Original OCC Super Mod....and former OCC Co-Admin. I was hacked........ 
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#12
10-04-2022, 04:10 PM
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Was able to remove one of the heads and found the piston was not moving while turning the crank shaft so connecting rod must have broke. Would any of you guys even attempt to replace the connecting rod or is this engine not worth saving. I'm not a stranger to engine swaps as I have done them on cars and old bobcats.
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#13
10-04-2022, 05:51 PM
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This same thing happened to the KT17 in my 682. I opted to replace it with a Magnum 18. A lot of guys go with the Kohler Command engines since they are still available new, and are proven.
__________________
 582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811
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#14
10-04-2022, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
And if it was me, Id go with the better and later Series II or better yet Magnum M-18. But they are getting scarce, so a lot of ppl are going to the newer OHV valve engines as mentioned. The Series 1 just isn't worth fixing IF one could even find parts. And most times they destroy the block, break the camshaft, among other internal destruction. As much as I like the opposed twins, the series 1 with splash oiled connecting rod design was a mistake that never should have happened. It dam near bankrupted Kohler, back in the day. 
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#16
10-04-2022, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
If it's a good tractor for you it's worth the effort to do the Command swap.
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RUN IN THE RED 782 w/50c deck (red); 782 dual stick, 44c deck (y/w); 1050 w/38c deck; 1864 w/54" GT deck; 1872 project Cub Cadet Pro Z 560 L 42" power angle snowblade, #2 tiller, 2-QA42a snowthrowers, 450 thrower, #2 cart; 54" Haban blade; Brinly box blade, 48" dethatcher, moldboard plow; Agri-Fab sweeper 1200, 1863, 1864 parts machines
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#18
10-05-2022, 07:31 AM
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If you are going to save the KT17 S2, replace the original brittle governor gear. Use either an original cast iron hear from an older single cylinder K series engine, or a new and improved nylon part from Kohler.
__________________
582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811
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