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#11
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Well, there you go.
DarkMinion, I did retighten good and hard (by hand, no air), then loosened again, then used the air hammer again, and, whaddayaknow, off it came! Ironman, Thank you for the suggestions, but fortunately, I got it without resorting to a new construction project. As for the taper, sorry to be disagreeable, but there is definitely a taper. I've indicated it in the photos below: Bottom Side of Steering Wheel - Eric |
#12
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Tightening a stubborn bolt or nut then trying again to loosen it occasionally works and is always worth a try.
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#13
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If you want to call what you pointed out a tapered steering shaft, that's fine with me, but this is what I'm talking about......
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#14
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You just might find that that spline/taper is the same as Gm in the 70-90's maybe newer and older also.
( And jeep as they used the same steering column.) it a pretty common spline A cub will preform much better with a good old Chebbie pee cup steering wheeeel |
#15
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Quote:
- Eric |
#16
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Quote:
I can't tell exactly where the taper is considered to begin here, or where it ends, and I haven't used any sophisticated means to determine the perpendicularity of my diameter measurements, but with ends that vary by about 0.038", separated by a length of about ¾", that's pretty much exactly 0.050" per inch (which would be 0.0375"), which is characteristic of a Jarno taper. A #6 Jarno taper starts at ¾" and tapers to 0.6" over a length of 3½", so this GM steering wheel taper appears to be a modified Jarno taper. To clarify my point, and the reason I've been a PIA about it, I wanted to make clear that when pulling a Cub steering wheel, you are not (or not necessarily) trying to break free the large surface are of a rusted spline; you are generally trying to break a taper connection, which is a slightly different animal than a rusted splined shaft, and will require significant force even if it is not rusted at all. - Eric |
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