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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Rear Engine Rider & ZTR (RER)

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  #1  
Old 09-14-2022, 10:56 PM
mschel72 mschel72 is offline
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Default Cub Cadet 1027 no crank

Hi, I just got a 1027 with unknown issues. The first is it will not turn over with ignition key.


What I have done so far:

New battery and replaced frayed starter solenoid (orange) cable.
New ignition switch.

If I jump the orange solenoid wire directly to 12v pos the engine turns over
Not getting full 12v(erratic) at orange wire when cranking with key.

The owners manual mentions several safety switches but does not list their part numbers or physical locations. Any idea where I can find one or more if needed. Will do continuity tests but figured I would get at least one to have around if one does turn out to be bad.

I don't hear the solenoid clicking at all except if I jump it.

thanks for any help.
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Old 09-15-2022, 06:30 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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The two switches that interlock with the "start circuit" are:

* Brake Pedal Switch
* Deck Switch

In order for the engine to roll over, the Blade Engagement Lever has to be in the "disengaged" position, and the Brake Pedal is depressed.

Either of the switches could be bad, or a wire connection to either.
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CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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Old 09-15-2022, 07:23 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Depending on your model, there are two different wire harnesses
so you may also have a seat switch and a couple of relays in the mix.

You can get the wiring diagram here.....
https://www.ccpartsnmore.com/cub-cad...ing-schematics
Scroll down to "Cub Cadet Rear Engine Wiring Schematics".
You will see two listings for 1027 Series.

You may also want to check the fuse.
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Old 09-15-2022, 09:50 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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You need to locate a service manual for your machine.
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Old 09-15-2022, 02:34 PM
mschel72 mschel72 is offline
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Thanks all for the pointers on the switch dependencies and the link for wiring diagrams.

I will trace those down and try jumpering at a few locations.

I can't seem to find the part numbers for the switches though in the parts diagram in their manual. It looks like cub cadet has a few switch types over the years looking at amazon and various parts dealers.

Guess I will have to get under the pedals and compare visually.

thanks.
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Old 09-17-2022, 10:54 PM
mschel72 mschel72 is offline
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Hi, in case anyone else runs across same issue, the safety switch part numbers are in the attached image.

Switches on order, will continue tracing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cub cadet 1027 wiring with switch.jpg (19.0 KB, 39 views)
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  #7  
Old 09-28-2022, 09:51 PM
mschel72 mschel72 is offline
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I finally got the mower running but still a few lingering items..

New items: Replaced the brake switch and a chewed orange wire and it cranked over. Fuel lines were shot and leaking when I put some gas in so replaced those and filter. Still not starting so I replaced carb, will probably rebuild other one at some point but got one of those chinese amazon ones to at least get it running. After all that it now runs.

But two new issues..

When replacing the carb the choke linkage fell out and I can't figure out how its supposed to go together. Am using the choke lever for now to start. Anyone have a good picture of how its supposed to link to the choke lever? I have it through the slot and also matched the up down orientation to my picture taken before taking apart. But unfortunately I had no idea the linkage was not the usual choke cable to lever I am used to and it sorta just blew apart when trying to remove the choke lever linkage rod.

2nd new problem.. The throttle pedal (far right) has to be pressed all the way down to move and its pretty slow when it does engage. The throttle cable is at full speed setting. On the other mowers of similar era (LT1050, LTX, etc) the foot throttle engages much sooner. Perhaps that's normal for this model? Maybe new drive belt?

Thanks.
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Old 09-29-2022, 08:25 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
got one of those Chinese Amazon ones
Quote:
When replacing the carb the choke linkage fell out and I can't figure out how its supposed to go together. Am using the choke lever for now to start. Anyone have a good picture of how its supposed to link to the choke lever? I have it through the slot and also matched the up down orientation to my picture taken before taking apart. But unfortunately I had no idea the linkage was not the usual choke cable to lever I am used to and it sorta just blew apart when trying to remove the choke lever linkage rod.


Quote:
The throttle pedal (far right) has to be pressed all the way down to move and its pretty slow when it does engage.
Sounds like a linkage problem.
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CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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Old 10-01-2022, 05:28 PM
mschel72 mschel72 is offline
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Hi, I found a good video on youtube that shows how the throttle linkage is setup. Not what I expected but basically the far end does not attach to anything but instead looks to be pushed by the choke linkage.

Will work on it more this coming week and see if I can figure out the throttle pedal issue further as well.

Link on youtube (around 5 minute mark):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6ZPp3wDf0M

Hopefully this helps someone else.
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