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  #11  
Old 10-09-2018, 03:14 PM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
The front axle has NOTHING to do with engine removal.
What he said!
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2018, 04:41 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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The 2 front bolts that hold the engine to the cradle are accessed directly above the axle. Short of pulling the axle, which would really be a pain w/the with a deep sump engine in place, about the only good way to remove them is to jack the tractor up so the axle swivels up and down.

I have found that the easiest way to remove engines in QL's W/O removing the cradle.

For me, installation and/or removal w/the cradle bolted to the engine is by far a bigger PITA that dealing with 2 bolts to the pan. No scratched paint either. Your mileage may vary, I'm sure. Just be sure to use the same or same/correct length bolts when reinstalling the engine to the cradle to avoid issues w/cracked pans due to using bolts that are too long then getting violent with them when tightening.

When you get the front of the rig off the ground so the axle pivots, THEN you will likely find that you DO have loose front axle issues.

My $.02 worth.
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2018, 05:46 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
..... which would really be a pain w/the with a deep sump engine in place....
I can see that with a badly worn axle pin with a shoulder worn on it or rusted in place. I guess I've been lucky. Drive the spriod pin out and using a right angle bar, pry between the oil pan and the axle pin. Then grab it in the front with vice grips and pull it out.


But,.. whatever. Good luck kid.
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  #14  
Old 10-09-2018, 06:53 PM
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cubs-n-bxrs cubs-n-bxrs is offline
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Mudrig why don't you download the service manual and do some reading. You might find it useful.
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  #15  
Old 10-09-2018, 08:51 PM
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I would drain the oil first, disconnect the drive line, then just tip it on its side and let the engine fall out, put some hay or if you prefer some soft downy feather pillows on the ground.
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  #16  
Old 10-09-2018, 10:09 PM
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2 guys, safer than one. Just grab it and lift. Air shroud, exhaust elbow, generator on older engines, all good places to grab. DON'T grab the carb/air filter. Could just pull a couple head bolts and install a piece of chain and lift by that. Main thing is to just THINK a moment about how you are going to lift it and where you are going with it. Use your knees, not your back. Nobody tells you that until after its too late......
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  #17  
Old 10-10-2018, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs View Post
Mudrig why don't you download the service manual and do some reading. You might find it useful.
I was wondering why this hasn't been mentioned yet. Many questions regarding the restoration, yet the service manual will be a great start/reference.


I'm sure you can find a PDF version somewhere and read it. ~150 pages of good stuff!
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  #18  
Old 10-10-2018, 12:05 PM
Mudrig150 Mudrig150 is offline
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Originally Posted by twoton View Post
Yes you can, but... there are 'ears' on the front ends of the cradle rails where the snubbers are that can make it tricky to lift the engine and rails out as a unit. Especially if you are lifting it out by hand. If you have a lift/hoist its a different story.
I really only can use a hoist because I'm sure as hell not strong enough to lift the engine out by hand.

Guess I'll just stick a chain through the original hook bolt and lift it from there.
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  #19  
Old 10-10-2018, 01:50 PM
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R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
Guess I'll just stick a chain through the original hook bolt and lift it from there.
ATA boy......
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  #20  
Old 10-10-2018, 03:15 PM
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I really only can use a hoist because I'm sure as hell not strong enough to lift the engine out by hand.

Guess I'll just stick a chain through the original hook bolt and lift it from there.
Yes sir! Geterdone attitude! I LIKE IT!
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