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  #1  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:30 PM
truckntran truckntran is offline
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Question lift handle button repairs

I have a 125 with a seized up lift button.. and actually of 5 cubs, I don't have a single lift handle that's right....missing lock buttons, seized upper button, one that is sharpened for some reason...slipping rubber handles, etc.

HOW do you get these things apart to fix them, and can you still get the top and lock buttons?? any tips appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2009, 09:13 AM
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punkid punkid is offline
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This should be a good topic, I too have a problems with the lift handle. My Button thankfully still works although it does stick down so you almost have to wiggle it back up with the other hand. My grip slides as well, I am thinking motorcycle grip glue should work. My biggest issue is I have no lock button, I did not even realise it was missing until I was reading the instruction on setting the deck height. Does anyone know where you can get the button?
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2009, 07:51 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Not sure about getting new parts for these, try our sponsors...

The top button unscrews, inside is a spring and the rod. The spring comes out the top and the rod comes out the bottom. Depending on the model tractor you have and the equipment you have in your shop it may be easier to remove the entire handle assy. or remove the deck and raise the front of the tractor WAY up. Tap the rod down (out) with a hammer and a dowel until you can get ahold of it with something from the bottom then twist and pull it the rest of the way out, clean it up with a wire wheel, sand paper or what ever you have available. Try to "run" something down through the handle to clean it out the best you can. Put the rod and spring back in and pour a little oil down into the handle before screwing the button back in. I usually put a little oil down the handle when I change oil in the engine, just to keep them free.

If you are afraid of twisting the button off, instead of it unscrewing, remember that the threaded part of the rod is 5/16" (just to give you an idea of how much you can twist it before it breaks) I've ran across some that were pretty bad and I don't think I've ever broken one, if that's any help.

If your Cub lives or spends a lot of time outside, put an inverted tin can over your handles to keep water, sand, dust out of the inside of the handle.

Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:12 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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I have the top button assembly. I sawed the lift arm off of a rock shaft from a NF cub cadet and have a spare button and spring assembly. You could try some WD-40 spray around the circumference of the button to try to free it up. Contact me if you need that part: sdretter@verizon.net

Good Luck!
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  #5  
Old 09-18-2009, 08:27 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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WD-40 won't free the part up...it's not a penetrant. You need PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. When I restored my 100, I unscrewed the button and pulled the rod out of the bottom. After finding extreme wear on the bottom part of the rod, I bought some 5/16" dia. steel and made a new rod. It's really easy to make and really tightens up the feel of the handle. Of course, I cleaned and painted the spring and zinc-plated the button while I was in there. While you're in there, I'd take off the piece with the ratchet teeth in it and beat it straight again and clean the rust off...they get bent and rusty over time, which makes the lift handle hard to operate. When I reassembled my 100, I could not believe how smooth the lift handle operation was.
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  #6  
Old 09-20-2009, 01:44 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Unless you guys displace a lot of water... THROW THAT %@&^ WD 40 AWAY AND DON'T BUY ANY MORE. Then head to the nearest hardware store and get a can of PB Blaster. WD40 DOES NOT HELP BREAK ANYTHING LOOSE.
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Old 09-20-2009, 09:15 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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I agree, PB blaster does lubricate a lot better...though I think WD-40 (and laquer thinner) does a nice job cleaning up parts from gunk that obstruct normal operation.
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Old 09-20-2009, 09:37 PM
dkish dkish is offline
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you know what WD-40 stands for?
W - wet
D - down
4 - for
0 - nothing
:biggrin2.gif:
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:17 AM
cvcman cvcman is offline
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I prefere Kroil over ALL the others
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:39 PM
clint clint is offline
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When you get down to it for penetrating oil etc wd40 does leave something to be desired, however it is not all so bad. It is a good cleaning solvent, it will penetrate a very small amount (very little) so if it did do any good I reckon you would not need it any way. There is a writeup on the net on penetrating fluids, and if I remember correct it was acetone that beat them all hands down (do a google on bet penetrating oil test I think it is) Pb blaster is easy to get local, Kroil seem sto work better for really rusted, heated, gunky stuff. I have not tried liquid wrench yet, have read it also works really well. CorrosionX is also a OUTSTANDING penetrating, and rust preventative

WD-40 beats them all hands down when working with aluminum, best cutting fluid for aluminum I have used, and cheap too!!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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