Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

Cub Cadet Classics R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres Binder Books

CC Speciaalties IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!



Only Cub Cadets Chat!

OCC Archives


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-26-2017, 11:16 PM
brudder brudder is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 36
Default Ross steering box rebuild

I had quite a bit of slop in the steering of my 1641 that I'm going through, so I thought I would open up the steering box and see how it looks. I'm sure it is loose in the box because I could turn the steering wheel and it was tight at the CV joint but the cam was not moving.

Well, I was expecting more wear on the cam follower pin. There are no flat spots, just even wear like is visible in the first picture. Is it common for the shafts to wear too or would this amount of wear on the pin cause it to be so loose? All of the other bolts were tight and cotter keys were still installed where they should be. The cap on the bottom of the whole assembly was still in place with cotter key installed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1126171740.jpg (48.9 KB, 227 views)
File Type: jpg 1126171740a.jpg (51.8 KB, 224 views)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-27-2017, 07:42 AM
Vrobert's Avatar
Vrobert Vrobert is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: MD
Posts: 112
Default

You didn't mention whether you tried adjusting the pin first. It looks like the pin may be worn enough that it is too narrow which allows it to contact the rod. I see what appear to be scrape marks from the pin bottoming out. Either buy a new pin or grind off some of the narrow end of the pin until it wont bottom out in the groove. The kit I bought had new bearings but I should have replaced the races as well. And don't skip removing the cotter pin and readjusting the end cap.
__________________
Barn fresh 1811 with:
44c mowing deck
QA42A snow thrower
42" snow blade
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-27-2017, 09:22 AM
J-Mech's Avatar
J-Mech J-Mech is online now
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,275
Default

The box just being out of adjustment will cause a lot of "slop".
The pin out of adjustment, the lower cap not tight on the bearings.
The pin should wear on the sides, unless someone has been turning it randomly. It doesn't look worn to me. No way it could be worn evenly. I'd say you just need to clean it up, lube and adjust it.


Don't listen to Vrobert, he thinks you can take apart and rebuild sealed bearings. He doesn't have good judgement on worn parts, or apparently understand how to fix things.

I don't think it looks like the pin was bottoming out, but you should readjust it and make sure it isn't anyway.
__________________
Jonathan
"They say money doesn't buy happiness....... but it does buy Cub Cadets, and Cub Cadets make me VERY happy!"

Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB, JD 317
On the "back burner": 2-71's, 1250DS, 1000, 582, 682, 982, JD 318.
I have over 30 implements/attachments! IH, Cub Cadet, Brinly, Agrifab, and more!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-27-2017, 09:46 PM
Vrobert's Avatar
Vrobert Vrobert is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: MD
Posts: 112
Default

I would remove the pin from the plate and see how it fits in the groove. Make sure it can't touch botom and only contacts the sides.

And whatever you do don't take any advice from J-Mech. He's cranky because he suffers from premature ignition and clevis envy. I hear it's contagious.
__________________
Barn fresh 1811 with:
44c mowing deck
QA42A snow thrower
42" snow blade
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-27-2017, 09:53 PM
J-Mech's Avatar
J-Mech J-Mech is online now
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,275
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrobert View Post
I would remove the pin from the plate and see how it fits in the groove. Make sure it can't touch botom and only contacts the sides.

He has the plate off. Why would he need to remove the pin??? He can just set it down on the worm gear still on the plate and see how it fits.

Wouldn't matter anyway. When he reassembles it, you have to set the pin depth, and you can't see in the box to do it. You have to do it by feel.

I see no evidence on the pin, or the worm to indicate it is bottoming out.
__________________
Jonathan
"They say money doesn't buy happiness....... but it does buy Cub Cadets, and Cub Cadets make me VERY happy!"

Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB, JD 317
On the "back burner": 2-71's, 1250DS, 1000, 582, 682, 982, JD 318.
I have over 30 implements/attachments! IH, Cub Cadet, Brinly, Agrifab, and more!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-27-2017, 10:54 PM
Terry C's Avatar
Terry C Terry C is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Iowa
Posts: 3,384
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrobert View Post
I would remove the pin from the plate and see how it fits in the groove. Make sure it can't touch botom and only contacts the sides.

And whatever you do don't take any advice from J-Mech. He's cranky because he suffers from premature ignition and clevis envy. I hear it's contagious.
I would not mess with J too much.
Better just keep rebuilding ball bearings
__________________
Terry

O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105
125,129,149,1200,982
(2)2182s w/60in Habans
3225
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-27-2017, 11:28 PM
brudder brudder is online now
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 36
Default

Thanks all for the input. I just did a quick check and it's not bottoming out. Could be just grease smears in the first pictures that make it look like that.

I had a long day at work and things to take care of this evening so I didn't even take the time to understand why the threads on the stud are wearing. Maybe I'm not holding the worm gear correctly in relation to the pin in this picture.

I had another member PM me that he replaces any wear parts he can when he's this far in. I tend to agree unless I would get a bad pin in this case that wasn't as hard and actually wears faster.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1127172212.jpg (33.1 KB, 161 views)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-28-2017, 04:47 AM
Cannon51's Avatar
Cannon51 Cannon51 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 316
Default

I took the box out of my 1641 apart last week when I discovered that the seal retainer had come out of place. I've cleaned up all the parts and ordered a new pin and seal retainer. The plastic cage for the upper bearing had broken up and I found several pieces of it in the grease. I plan to put it back together without the cage. The pin does wear in two places if it's never been adjusted. I don't have mine back together yet so I won't give any advise on that.
Cannon
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cub 1641 003.jpg (30.0 KB, 157 views)
File Type: jpg cub 1641 004.jpg (32.5 KB, 157 views)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-28-2017, 09:12 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,333
Default

Umm, I think you will need that cage.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-28-2017, 09:38 AM
olds45512's Avatar
olds45512 olds45512 is online now
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 7,925
Default

If you put a column together without the cage i recommend adding an extra ball or two to take up the space, the column in my 108 doesn't have a any cage's in it and it's been that way for 6yrs.
__________________
Tim
Pap's 100
Restored 108
1211 Dual Stick
1050
Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, & do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH®, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER® are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.