Battery size - Page 3

Merk · #21 11-20-2018, 09:25 PM

Battery box on my 100:

Merk · #22 11-20-2018, 09:27 PM

My 100 8 years after restoration:

DewDrop · #23 11-20-2018, 09:40 PM

I just want to throw this out there, be careful buying the Traveller U1-300 battery from tractor supply. Brand new it only was putting out 109cca. I exchanged it a month later hoping they got some new ones in, and it was exactly the same. You may not be getting what you pay for... it does fit nice in my 127 though!

dodge trucker · #24 11-20-2018, 09:54 PM

IDK who did it, or when/ but to put a car battery type terminals in Merk's tractor, as pictured.... but someone along the way has changed cables and it has one of those universal cable ends on the cable on the left, looking at the tractor from the vantage point of "as pictured".

I avoid that style cable end, or at least as designed. I do this all the time on car battery cables especially today's stamped steel ones that rot away within a few years. These are crimped to the cable, not just peeled back like an ear of corn with all the open strands open to air/battery gases (esp. when charging) to corrode away. In the case of the original style GT cable leave the eye terminal on the cable as manufactured. Screw THAT to one of the ears on the universal terminal. The cable will be less likely to eat itself away and if you do go back to the original size battery with U1 style posts all you gotta do is remove 1 bolt from the terminal. DON'T just put it under the band that spans the 2 bolts like you would if you stripped the cable bare. Put the bolt from the ear thru the eyelet in the terminal.

I have seen so many no starts caused from corrosion in the cable strands from these universal terminals, and the corrosion also eventually insulates the cable from the terminal. Cars AND tractors alike.

Merk · #25 11-20-2018, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodge trucker

IDK who did it, or when/ but to put a car battery type terminals in Merk's tractor, as pictured.... but someone along the way has changed cables and it has one of those universal cable ends on the cable on the left, looking at the tractor from the vantage point of "as pictured".

I avoid that style cable end, or at least as designed. I do this all the time on car battery cables especially today's stamped steel ones that rot away within a few years. These are crimped to the cable, not just peeled back like an ear of corn with all the open strands open to air/battery gases (esp. when charging) to corrode away. In the case of the original style GT cable leave the eye terminal on the cable as manufactured. Screw THAT to one of the ears on the universal terminal. The cable will be less likely to eat itself away and if you do go back to the original size battery with U1 style posts all you gotta do is remove 1 bolt from the terminal. DON'T just put it under the band that spans the 2 bolts like you would if you stripped the cable bare. Put the bolt from the ear thru the eyelet in the terminal.

I have seen so many no starts caused from corrosion in the cable strands from these universal terminals, and the corrosion also eventually insulates the cable from the terminal. Cars AND tractors alike.

Have to agree about the stamp steel cables. This 100 was finish in April of 2007. The battery and terminal ends are still the same ones when I installed everything in 2007 with no corrosion issues. I wanted a cable like the one on the right side of the battery.....This one was made by me (ends-wire).

bill682 · #26 11-20-2018, 11:21 PM

Even the earlier Cub Cadet 1961-1963 used the small battery with bolt and nut cable ends.
I don't know anything about the large battery 100's. I'm guessing a dealer installed option.

Merk · #27 11-20-2018, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill682

I don't know anything about the large battery 100's. I'm guessing a dealer installed option.

You need to read-reread post #5 on this topic.

The earlier IH Cub Cadet 100 did not have a compression release. The earlier 100s had a 2 piece cam that retarded the timing so the engine could spin over easier/faster. Long story short-it didn't work. The bigger battery had higher cold crank numbers to help make starting easier.

35boulder · #28 11-21-2018, 07:29 AM

Thanks for all the replies. Serial number on my 100 is 67043. I'm sure these are not the original battery cables but somewhere I do have the negative cable that was yellow and it had the round over the post style connector on it. So based on all that has been shared here, a U series L&G battery will work with the right post on it, or it looks like a car battery will work as well.
Any more info on this or ideas, I'd sure like to hear. Thanks Dave

35boulder · #29 11-21-2018, 07:35 AM

Merk, my battery box is the same dimension as the one you posted pics of in your earlier post with the tape measure. Thanks

cooperino · #30 11-21-2018, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 35boulder

Thanks for all the replies. Serial number on my 100 is 67043. I'm sure these are not the original battery cables but somewhere I do have the negative cable that was yellow and it had the round over the post style connector on it. So based on all that has been shared here, a U series L&G battery will work with the right post on it, or it looks like a car battery will work as well.
Any more info on this or ideas, I'd sure like to hear. Thanks Dave

Actually what Merk is saying is. The early 100's didnt have a compression release. That translates to needing more power to crank engine. My 100 is prior to the split Merk discussed however i think mine has the smaller battery box. I aslo dont recall the LG batterie being an issue to start. I think my battery box is original as well as the engine.

Boulder. A larger car battery will not hurt anything. If it fits, use it if you want. They are a few more dollars than a LG but i bet it will crank nicer in the cold. Anyway, your tractor uour money.. enjoy