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  #21  
Old 12-21-2018, 03:53 PM
heinriech heinriech is offline
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Good deal, tractor is up front now and ready for surgery. Any pointers on getting the starter out of this M-18? I can see it under the heat shrouds but just curious if there is an easy way to get it out.

Thanks
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  #22  
Old 12-21-2018, 04:22 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Originally Posted by heinriech View Post
Good deal, tractor is up front now and ready for surgery. Any pointers on getting the starter out of this M-18? I can see it under the heat shrouds but just curious if there is an easy way to get it out.

Thanks
No super easy way to do it to be honest. It's possible to get it out without pulling out the mounting bolts, but it's a lot easier to remove the 6 mounting bolts (3 on each side) that hold the plate into the frame, and lift the engine up. Even then it's a bit of a PITA. There's just two nuts that hold it to the mounting boss on the front of the engine (rear of it as it sits in the tractor).
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  #23  
Old 12-21-2018, 07:19 PM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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Originally Posted by heinriech View Post
Thanks for input guys! IWhat do you recommend for new replacement plugs?
CHAMPION plugs just like when it was new? Can't go wrong there. People will rag on Champion plugs but I run them in everything I own that has spark plugs. Rarely an issue, and should there be? Spark plugs are cheap.
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  #24  
Old 12-31-2018, 07:37 PM
heinriech heinriech is offline
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More updates, pulled the motor and blew it apart. Found the problem a giant mouse nest in the flywheel starter area. Included dead mouse carcus, lots of bedding and string. When I pulled the starter it had a huge "nose" on it from string being wound around. Moral of the story, motor rolls and starter feels normal. So I would like to do a few mainence items and put it back in. Can anyone point me to the part numbers or vendors that can get me: bolts to hold the tins back on the outside of the engine? Gasket for the external mounted oil filter flange to block?


Anything else suggested "while I am there"? Will change the plugs and oil/filter before reinstall.


Thanks!
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  #25  
Old 12-31-2018, 07:56 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Go to the top of the page and click on Cub Cadet Parts and Service Tab. In the Model box type in "1811" for M-18 engine parts.
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  #26  
Old 12-31-2018, 08:07 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Make sure you blow both heads/cylinder fins off, paying attention to the build up around the magneto as the heat build up there tends to kill it prematurely.
As far as the gaskets, you can order online, evil pay or local mower shop.
Partstree.com is where you will find the part numbers.
The bolts are 1/4-20, available at fleet supply, tractor supply, hardware stores,
just take your old one to duplicate.
If your threaded holes are a bit stripped, just tap them deeper with a
"bottom" tap, and use longer bolts, you might have to cut a longer one off a bit,
in-other-words, custom fit the length, and use lock washers.
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  #27  
Old 12-31-2018, 08:17 PM
heinriech heinriech is offline
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Thanks guys will get on it. Both fasteners in the top of both heads are broke off so I will drill out and rethread.
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  #28  
Old 12-31-2018, 08:44 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heinriech View Post
Thanks guys will get on it. Both fasteners in the top of both heads are broke off so I will drill out and rethread.
Take your time the drill wants to wander unless you have the heads in a mill or good drill press.
Careful trying an easy out,(I don't recommend it) they tend to break off and are harder than a bolt to drill.
Ideally one would of heated the bolt boss up and carefully removed the bolt before it broke, lesson learned.
Good Luck!
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  #29  
Old 12-31-2018, 09:32 PM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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I have another brand tractor with a KT19 (actually have 2 of the same tractors) and on the 1st I played musical starters 3X before I got it to crank over like it should, I was trying to be cheap in getting a good starter on it,
The 1st one (original) had a bad Bendix, it would sometimes not engage, or other times it would engage and kick out before the engine started.

I got a brand new looking one in a pile of parts that a guy had listed on CL, but it was a shorter housing/ less powerful. That one wound up having a cracked magnet, I removed the cracked corner and reassembled, thinking that little corner missing wouldn't hurt anything, I was wrong. In the end, I pulled the engine yet again, and took the new end caps, brushes, and Bendix from the damaged new one and put them on to the original housing and armature, and after adding a redundant ground, from the frame to the engine, (with the frame end of the cable connected to the foot of the solenoid)and it cranks up like no tomorrow. About a revolution and a half and it's running.
When I got the 2nd one, I got it with the belief that it was locked up, wound up being full of mouse hotel, and the Bendix was stuck out, meshed with the ring gear, and seized. I freed up the engine with a tug on the driveshaft with a pair of channellocks, and put the new starter from a parts engine that I found on to this machine and redundant cables, and it too starts quite easy.
Not bad for a machine that was written off as having a locked up engine.
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  #30  
Old 01-01-2019, 08:30 AM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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For the screws I use https://www.mcmaster.com/#92323A510

Kohler dealer might still be able to get you that gasket. Or you can snag one on eBay or pats small engines. IIRC it’s a pretty expensive gasket, but I would try to find it instead of just silicone-ing it because of how delicate it is.

Glad you (likely) found your issue. As george said, make sure you clean the fins out while you’re in there. You should be able to see straight through to the rear of the engine through the jugs when you’re done. If you’re that far into it, it wouldn’t hurt to check behind the flywheel. Make sure the oil seal is good and that nothing got built by your mouse friend behind there as well. Of course this means popping the flywheel and magneto off.

I’d also take the time to disassemble and clean/lube the starter. Take a bit of Emory cloth to the commutator and a little grease on the rear housing bushing and the front housing bushing as well as cleaning and spraying some dry lube on the bendix and shaft. You can also inspect the brushes while you’re in there.

Starter and stuff behind the blower housing are the two worst things to get at while that engine is mounted so I always try to go through everything that might cause problems while I’ve got them accessible.
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