1974 Cub cadet 1250 partial restoration

[Mudrig150]

Here's my 1974 Cub 1250, got her for 200$ at an estate auction, along with a deck, and snow blade. She has ag tires and wheel weights, had tire chains and goofy headlights. She's a little anemic, but it's okay. We removed the one tire and swapped it, turns out my spindles are dead from the bearings seizing and
scoring the hell outta them, so she's gonna need new spindles. She has a weird pepper can exhaust, which sticks out like a sore thumb and is a burn hazard. She is, of course, missing the expensive parts, and she has no headlights, but it's fine.
http://preview.ibb.co/dnvWyy/20180509_172030.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/i2Wh5d/20180509_172051.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/d6DvQd/20180509_171003.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/hFfLrJ/20180509_165826.jpg

[john hall]

I see potential!

[Mudrig150]

Originally Posted by john hall

I see potential!

My plan is to put new decals on, install factory headlights, fix the muffler, repair the steering, and replace a few parts.

I might put a hydraulic lift in it once everything's done like my brother did.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by Mudrig150

My plan is to put new decals on, install factory headlights, fix the muffler, repair the steering, and replace a few parts.

I might put a hydraulic lift in it once everything's done like my brother did.

Yeah its rather hard to say "I'll only repair this and that". Every time I set out to fix one thing, I see something else, next thing you know its all apart and I say, well I might as well fix_____. But its nice when its done and I can count on it being rather reliable.

[Mudrig150]

Originally Posted by john hall

Yeah its rather hard to say "I'll only repair this and that". Every time I set out to fix one thing, I see something else, next thing you know its all apart and I say, well I might as well fix_____. But its nice when its done and I can count on it being rather reliable.

Yeah, that's been me with my Powr kraft (Piece of junk), all I've found are issues, and it's pretty cheaply built. My 1974 Single cylinder 1250 runs better than my twin cylinder 1995 Powr kraft... It's kind of sad.

So far I've had multiple issues with the Powr kraft and one issue with my 1250: The hydro is severely anemic.

[Mudrig150]

I've figured out some issues with my tractor.
1. The thing misfires like mad. It misfires when on rough terrain and when throttled up. It is running lean? Or is it some other issue?

2. The hydro is weak. The tractor can barely make it up hills, and the pump gets hot. I think it is low on fluid.

3. Amp meter barely works. It goes up upon startup, but then slowly drifts back to 0 when running. Wiring issue or is it broke?

Thanks in advance, I'll post more later.
Here are some pics:

[Mudrig150]

Anyone know how to get the locknut off of the muffler elbow on a 1450? I've tried a few different methods but none can get it off, and I'm not paying 85$ when I have a perfectly good one on the 1450.
It would help if the stupid engine tins weren't in the way.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by Mudrig150

Anyone know how to get the locknut off of the muffler elbow on a 1450? I've tried a few different methods but none can get it off, and I'm not paying 85$ when I have a perfectly good one on the 1450.
It would help if the stupid engine tins weren't in the way.

You can go to Lowe's and buy a metal conduit fitting and use the lock nut off it, the nuts are the same and the fitting will be about $1. Just make sure you buy the appropriate size.

If you are trying to remove the elbow to use it you might be a little disappointed. They don't come out easy or not at all, they are cast so if you're to rough on it it will break.

[J-Mech]

Unless it's absolutely necessary, don't remove the elbow.

Like Tim said, it's just a conduit nut. Nothing special.
To remove the nut and elbow, drive the nut loose with a punch. Soak the elbow inside and out with a good penetrating oil (like Kroil). It really needs to sit overnight. Heat the cast block area around the elbow with a torch. Propane torch will work, but if you want to use an acetylene torch, remove the head first. It doesn't have to be scorching hot, just hot. Then, use a pipe wrench and try to break it free. Easier if the engine is bolted up in the tractor to do this, but can be done with it out. I've taken several off this way with good luck, and no damage. But again, unless there is good reason to remove it (it's broken, or switching motors) just leave it in.

[Mudrig150]

I do need the elbow because my tractor doesn't have one and I am not spending almost 100$ on a new one.