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#1
05-14-2010, 10:36 PM
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Battery size
I know that I've seen this before but I cann't locate it. What size battery would you put in a CC 122. Went to tractor supply tonight to get one but to many choices. 360 amps, 350 amps 280 amps etc. These were all lawn and garden tractors Batteries. The machine will be used in extreme cold so I was figuring that a 360 Amp would be good. It won't blow the SG, or fry the wiring. will it?
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,1 Ariens 934 Hydro with cyclone rake 
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#2
05-14-2010, 11:14 PM
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The main thing is the physical size. My 122 was severely modified by the PO, but I've changed it back to OEM as best I could.
7.5 x 5 x about 6" tall is what I'm using. It's a Napa battery, lawn and garden tractor. I don't know the CCA though. If you're looking for a cold start battery, I'd say buy the biggest size that will fit without modification. You won't hurt anything electrical. That said, the best thing you can do for cold weather is to keep your engine warm, or warm it before you start it. A heat lamp at a reasonable distance is one good way to do this.
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--------------------- Jim in Lafayette, CO Cub Cadet 122, 126
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#3
05-15-2010, 07:06 AM
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A rule of thumb that I use is. Take the physical dimensions of the battery compartment and find the largest CCA battery that will fit in there.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA 
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#4
05-15-2010, 08:18 AM
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It's not high amperage that burns up starters it's low voltage that burns them up. As long as you have a good battery, it shouldn't be any problem. If they have choices on amperage I would go for the biggest they have. It will have more reserve capacity.
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Pat Benner Haskell OK Keep the Deck down and the Throttle open!!!
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#5
05-15-2010, 08:22 AM
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fer100: Roland's rule is what you go by. If it were me, I'd get the 360 Cranking Amperes w/abt 300 Cold Cranking Amperes battery. PLUS: I strongly recomend that you get a new ground cable (the auto stores sell 'em as "starter" cables) and connect the negative (-) terminal of the battery to the Starter/Generator bracket. That's not where IH put it, b - u - t after 40 years of corrosion build up, the one IH used at the base of the pedestal is not where you want it now to get a good ground path back to the S/G and the engine block. Moving the chassis ground point to the S/G will ensure that you will get full battery power to the S/G for those early morning startups in cold weather. Also, to make sure that the Voltage Regulator is properly grounded. On mine, I run a 14 Gauge wire from the ground leg of the V/R to the Negative (-) terminal of the battery. This is something IH didn't put there either but the pedestal no longer provides an uncorroded ground path, so installing the wire will allow the V/R to function as it did originally. Listen to Roland and follow these two wiring tips and you will be pleasantly surprised at how good the electrical circuits now work...BTDT!!
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Myron B East Texas Most of of the fleet: Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with.
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#6
05-15-2010, 12:28 PM
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FYI - AutoZone (if you have one by you) Has a DuraMax lawn tractor battery also. It has 425 cranking amps and 340 cold cranking amps. I picked one up 2 weeks ago and it cranks my 1450 over very well, of coarse it also help that I changed the battery cables to the starter and grounds to 4 gauge wire.
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#7
05-15-2010, 06:22 PM
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Thanks for all the replys. I'll head to Auto zone and check out that battery, I'll get that extra long ground cable, and some 14 gage wiring. I'll try this on this 122 and if it works out I will be changing the other 3 tractors. I see the grounding problem you talk about. Seems like after 40 years the rust is at every connection point. Even if you completely restore a tractor properly I would still do what you suggest. The reason I was asking about Amperage is that I remember last week someone try to jump there tractor will a truck and blew something. Don't want to fry my toys.
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,1 Ariens 934 Hydro with cyclone rake
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#8
05-15-2010, 08:56 PM
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"I strongly recomend that you get a new ground cable (the auto stores sell 'em as "starter" cables) and connect the negative (-) terminal of the battery to the Starter/Generator bracket".
"Connect the negative (-) terminal of the battery to the Starter/Generator bracket". MBounds " Just went to the store and got all the parts to do this. QUESTION Do you connect it at Bracket bolt on engine block or SG bolt at SG ? Got a 420 cranking - 350 CCA battery. Also 14 guage wire and connectors. will do this tomorrow. Thanks again
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,1 Ariens 934 Hydro with cyclone rake
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#9
05-15-2010, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
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,1 Ariens 934 Hydro with cyclone rake
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#10
05-15-2010, 09:05 PM
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I have mine grounded at the 5/16 bolt at the pivot point on the back end of the S/G. The bracket mounting holes are recessed which would make them more difficult to use.
You should also make sure your grille support, engine, and regulator all have fairly clean and tight connections. Just to prevent headaches later.
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--------------------- Jim in Lafayette, CO Cub Cadet 122, 126
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