Mystery Cub.... 200 bucks, complete with quirks - Page 3

WesternCannonball · #21 01-04-2021, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107

Alrighty then...

The interesting part is I remember all that info off the top of my head, along with a bunch more Cub info...

Think there might be something wrong with me?

Next thing I gotta memorize is the head bolt torquing pattern so I don't have to get my PDF manual

That is not a sign of madness, my friend, but the surest sign of passion

So, on the right-hand side of the rear end, I found stamped some numbers. Not the numbers cast into the metal indicating the mold number, but a 5-digit number "11968"
Referencing this chart https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=7114 it appears to mean built in June 1961.If I read that chart right (did I?) this thing has the rear end off an original.

Cubcadet_107 · #22 01-04-2021, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WesternCannonball

That is not a sign of madness, my friend, but the surest sign of passion

So, on the right-hand side of the rear end, I found stamped some numbers. Not the numbers cast into the metal indicating the mold number, but a 5-digit number "11968"

Something isn't right with that number, the model 70 and 100 serial numbers start at 65458, and end at 127160.

Perhaps there's an extra digit there that you didn't see?

WesternCannonball · #23 01-04-2021, 10:03 PM

That threw me, too, because according to the pictures the Original rear end was shaped differently, too. I'll get in there with a wire brush and a pencil and paper to see if there's something else there I missed. I will edit this post when/if I find it.

finsruskw · #24 01-05-2021, 08:43 AM

Post a pic where you found that number.

Was it on a flat rectangular or square pad near where your right foot would rest?

WesternCannonball · #25 01-06-2021, 10:10 PM

We tried taking pictures of the numbers, but every angle we tried blotted out some of them. It's not stamped on one of the raised squares, but vertically just behind the front of the rear end. It did occur to me, however, that I might be reading it upside down/backwards.... instead of "11968" it could be "89611" since none of the numbers are in a font that would indicate a difference.

I'm still struggling with the rear end being locked up, too. I finally got the stuck bolts in the rear and top seals off, and the fluid drained. It was dark red, with a greenish tint when the flashlight hit it while flowing, mixed with water and some thick, gritty sludge in the bottom. So, that brings another question, what fluid will I refill it with? Is it transmission fluid just the same as my pickup truck, or a special fluid?

Also, I'm sorry because I know at the beginning some of you seemed to know what was causing the lockup/opposing spin on the rear end, but I'm still confused since I don't know one gear from another. Transmissions confuse me, except for driving them normally! Is there a chart/diagram I could look at somewhere? I guess I need things explained in kid terms for now, with pictures (at least to start) if possible.

R Bedell · #26 01-07-2021, 07:17 AM

I have five Cub Cadet Tractors. If you jack the back end of each of them, and rotate the rear tires......ALL........of them will rotate the tires in the opposite direction. That is NORMAL. That is what a differential is suppose to do.

You need to got to our Technical Library Section and download the 70/100 Owners and Service Manual. In addition, there is a topic in the Library strictly on CC Lubricants for transmission.

Cubcadet_107 · #27 01-07-2021, 08:56 AM

Most recommend Case IH or Cub Cadet Hy-Tran fluid, but this is a commonly debated topic, as most other trans/hydraulic fluid will also work without issue. Whether be TSC "Traveller" brand, The "Harvest King" brand that my 107 runs with, or even the John Deere version of the fluid. They will all work and shouldn't cause any issue with the transmission, especially since you've got a gear drive. Hydros are a bit different, really all you need the fluid to do is stick to the gears and bearings, and lubricate them. Just about all brands of trans/hydro fluid will get that done no problem. (Please don't start a debate I'm just trying to state everything I've heard

)

The transmission design is relatively simple, with 2 gear sets to shift, allowing for 3 forward speeds plus an idler gear for 1 reverse speed. Realistically the stuck transmission shouldn't have to do with these gears themselves, unless it happens to be stuck in a gear. To check that simply pull the top cover on the transmission where the shift lever is, look at the shifter forks (there's 2, one on each side) and make sure they both are in the center (neutral). If one isn't in neutral attempt to move it out of gear by hand.

Now it is possible that one of the 2 tabs that she shift lever slides into in order to shift the gears has broken off completely, or bent far out. They are particular weak points in the transmission, and mainly break when someone tries to force the tractor into a gear. They can be welded to add strength and keep them from bending/breaking in the future. The pic below is the shift fork area beneath the top cover. I have labeled front/rear and the tabs that I am talking about. It also shows where they should be in order to be in neutral.

normal_trans (1).jpg

If both are in neutral and everything still will not turn freely, you could be dealing with a stuck bearing, which may require tearing further into the transmission to remove and replace it. Hopefully not, though!

Here's the manual for the 70/100 tractors from the tech section: https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/c...ervice+Man.pdf

(sorry if I'm a bit hard to follow, it's hard to explain what you know if you don't know the exact names of the parts

)

ironman · #28 01-07-2021, 09:28 AM

It's a slow turning gear box, not a Masseratti transmission.
Any brand, plain old 30 to 90 weight oil is all you need.

darkminion_17 · #29 01-07-2021, 10:16 AM

The brake puck in the tranny may be stuck in its bore and it will keep the tractor from moving. That is normal that both wheels turn in the opposite direction when jacked up even when the brake is applied.

Cubcadet_107 · #30 01-07-2021, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

The brake puck in the tranny may be stuck in its bore and it will keep the tractor from moving. That is normal that both wheels turn in the opposite direction when jacked up even when the brake is applied.

Lew I completely forgot about the brake (I'm used to my external disc brakes

), good catch on that one!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

It's a slow turning gear box, not a Masseratti transmission.
Any brand, plain old 30 to 90 weight oil is all you need.

Couldn't agree more, I kinda went off into a paragraph about how most fluids will work when I really didn't need to because this is a gear drive, not a hydro.