Long cranks and setting points, 124 k301 - Page 9

Rwgarrison23 · #81 10-24-2019, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperino

You should visibly see cross hatch on cylinder wall.

You true a head by running on flat piece of glass or flat stone with sand paper.

The engine has a compression release. You need to follow procedures for checking compression

I do, I remember seeing cross hatch on the clyinder walls.

I'm reading in my manual about the compression release is for easier starting and prevents kick backs but none about checking compression numbers

cooperino · #82 10-24-2019, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

I do, I remember seeing cross hatch on the clyinder walls.

I'm reading in my manual about the compression release is for easier starting and prevents kick backs but none about checking compression numbers

Okay. Let us know what compression reading you get.

cooperino · #83 10-25-2019, 06:13 AM

So your manual if I recall should say something like it's not practical to check compression because of the ACR automatic compression release. However, it's been said before that it can be checked by using a rope and turning engine backwards. Or, since the ACR keeps exhaust valve slightly open until you hit 650 rpm, you could adjust the exhaust valve to overcome the ACR so that it closes then check, but then the SG probably will have a hard time turning the engine.

Since you have it running somewhat better. I would run it for awhile checking oil consumption. I think you have a valve that not seating fully. Running it may clean that up some.

Rwgarrison23 · #84 10-26-2019, 09:00 PM

I messed with it some today. I messed with the governor. I adjusted it where it supposed to be and oddly my smoking out the exhaust has reduced.... weird. Plus my oil level been constant where I left it last. I ran it alot today and play around the yard some.

Rwgarrison23 · #85 10-30-2019, 10:08 PM

So, maybe we can diagnose this engine some more. My new autolite 216 spark plug gapped to .035 has fouled on me today. Left me stumped, so I put my champion plug back in and fired it back up. Why would it foul? Do I need to try a hotter plug?

cooperino · #86 10-30-2019, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

So, maybe we can diagnose this engine some more. My new autolite 216 spark plug gapped to .035 has fouled on me today. Left me stumped, so I put my champion plug back in and fired it back up. Why would it foul? Do I need to try a hotter plug?

Oil fouled? Fuel fouled? What did the plug look like?

Rwgarrison23 · #87 10-30-2019, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperino

Oil fouled? Fuel fouled? What did the plug look like?

Wet, so looks like fuel fouled.

Rwgarrison23 · #88 10-30-2019, 11:57 PM

So I decided to poke around with it some tonight. I took the side metal heat sheild that bolts in between the top head heat sheild into the fan blower off to get a good look at the head gasket base. Well, it seem like it leaking around the base. I'm not sure what I did wrong installing the new gasket with 420 inch pound torque. Looks like I'm going to redo my headgasket job. Might be s good time to carefully look at the clyinder walls again and true the head surfaces.

cooperino · #89 10-31-2019, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

So I decided to poke around with it some tonight. I took the side metal heat sheild that bolts in between the top head heat sheild into the fan blower off to get a good look at the head gasket base. Well, it seem like it leaking around the base. I'm not sure what I did wrong installing the new gasket with 420 inch pound torque. Looks like I'm going to redo my headgasket job. Might be s good time to carefully look at the clyinder walls again and true the head surfaces.

Look at posts 77,78,79,80.

You said you trued the head. Im trying to help you here but it seems your sort of chasing your tail. I know you say you dont have a youtube account but they are free to get. A video of it running probably would have solved a lot. These engines make a pretty distinct sound when they have a blown head gasket. If you did not actually true the head by resurfacing then yes you may have blown the new gasket. That usually does not happen in the first hour or 2 of running however. Especially since you seemed to indicate that yours was pretty flat.

ol'George · #90 10-31-2019, 10:11 AM

I'd not pull the head just yet.
If the gasket were leaking, they usually don't foul the plug.
Also you can see and hear it.
it will puff compression out in the leaking area.
Post some good pix of the old gasket, both sides, if you still have it.
I'd be more inclined to think either you have a fuel mixture problem or worn
bore/rings.
As Coop says usually a new gasket does not leak soon, and, if it didn't seal because of uneven surfaces, it will just push compression out, but not foul a plug.
I reread all your posts, didn't see where you checked the head properly for true
ness
Lets assume it is.
Put some regular gas in it as you sure as hell don't need hi octane with maybe 7 to 1 compression ratio on these old workhorses.
install a new plug.
start it and warm it up a few minutes, then open the throttle WFO(full speed)
and note where the main jet screw is set at, then slowly turn it in, (clockways)
till the engine falters like it is running out of fuel (it is) and take note where it is.
Then turn the needle back counterclockwise past where you originally started,continuing till it again falters running rich and emitting black smoke,
again noting where it is.
Right between those 2 places is real close to where the main jet should be set.
return engine to idle, and then set the low speed needle to where the engine sounds "happy"
now adjust the speed of the idle if need be
( the screw that keeps the butterfly open/ closed a bit)
(You can repeat this procedure if you feel the need to get it closer, but usually once gets it right)
Post your results.