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Reload this Page Need advice for a Johnson Loader on a 982
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  #81  
Old 01-08-2017, 11:36 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I can't wait for warm weather and some action shots!!
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  #82  
Old 01-09-2017, 10:37 AM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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So you have to hold the lift lever forward with one hand while you run the lift with the other hand? Sounds like a huge pita, he could have just put a couple T's in the lines and the loader would operate independently and you could have kept your lift.
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  #83  
Old 01-09-2017, 10:48 AM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Bunjee cord makes a great third arm.
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  #84  
Old 01-09-2017, 11:00 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
, he could have just put a couple T's in the lines and the loader would operate independently and you could have kept your lift.
No, you can't do that. They are both open center valves. You have to run through one, then the other. It will work that way, but the first valve in the series will take priority.

I'd do like Lew said, or use a wire. Anything that will lock the valve on. That or re-plumb it.
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  #85  
Old 01-09-2017, 12:14 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
Bunjee cord makes a great third arm.
Well Unc, you can certainly tell we are cut from the same pattern, because that is exactly the engineering that is set up on the ole girl (look carefully at the last picture I posted of it on my cub and you can see the black bungee on it). I will probably go to quick attach fittings for the loader and the 3 point so that I can quickly change over if ever I need to, but again, I don't see when that would be necessary. Besides my 800 needs that 3 point on it.

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  #86  
Old 01-10-2017, 12:27 PM
mjsoldcub mjsoldcub is offline
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i know im an ass for this, but why not just use a mule as a bracket and mount the pump that was MADE for it???? it wouldve been as easy as turning on your mower deck, and independent....could be quick attach too? i understand why the guy with the case didnt use it he had a pto on it...but why replumb the whole tractor or wire a lift handle and kill the midlift in the process....

i agree, i should have you send me the pump and some dims and ill make you one...then you just need to buy some hoses and a belt of proper length......

or ill just shut the f%#k up....you did good...and besides..i dont have a 149 with a loader...

itll be nice to have....
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  #87  
Old 01-10-2017, 12:51 PM
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Less things to go wrong this way. No belt to keep tensioned, or to fail or slip. No second reservoir to maintain or to leak. Less hoses, less pumps.... less possible leaks. Plus, now the front PTO is still free to use if needed. The rear lift and plumbing "correction" is really a pretty easy fix.
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  #88  
Old 01-10-2017, 05:44 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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Less things to go wrong this way. No belt to keep tensioned, or to fail or slip. No second reservoir to maintain or to leak. Less hoses, less pumps.... less possible leaks. Plus, now the front PTO is still free to use if needed. The rear lift and plumbing "correction" is really a pretty easy fix.
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Originally Posted by mjsoldcub View Post
i know im an ass for this, but why not just use a mule as a bracket and mount the pump that was MADE for it???? it wouldve been as easy as turning on your mower deck, and independent....could be quick attach too? i understand why the guy with the case didnt use it he had a pto on it...but why replumb the whole tractor or wire a lift handle and kill the midlift in the process....

i agree, i should have you send me the pump and some dims and ill make you one...then you just need to buy some hoses and a belt of proper length......

or ill just shut the f%#k up....you did good...and besides..i dont have a 149 with a loader...

itll be nice to have....
What Jonathan said.......that and simplicity. No, you are not an a** for asking that question. In fact, I am glad that you did and I certainly don't want anyone to shut up when they have a question. Those are questions that should be asked and in turn, answered, so that others may benefit on this forum for both now and in the future. Besides, that is how we all learn. I asked my fabricator the same thing, too, because I didn't know. I also asked him why quick connectors weren't used for the hoses to the loader and he said that he wanted to but the store was currently out of them and he had to move my project on since he had some bigger machines to bring in to work on. He did offer to put them on later if I didn't get them on beforehand. I know some people are probably saying, "Why did he not finish the job like I wanted." Well, he did me a favor in the first place for working on it because he normally doesn't work on that small of a machine and his policy is no lawn mowers, so I was just glad to have it hooked up so fast after I got the loader. So I'm not frowning at all and will work out the kinks in time.

That's why I did not want this thread shut down, so that it can help people.....most of all, to help me!!! Just keep asking those questions mjsoldcub because people like me benefit from the questions you asks and the answers for those questions. My only request is, keep it clean so that even our youngest of enthusiasts can be on our forum. Connor (aka Mrcubcadet) started on this forum at the age of 14 and his parents screened what he read (and rightfully so). I would hate to think that our vocabulary would keep someone that young who is interested in our hobby away from all of the knowledge we have collectively here.

Ok, as always.....I have a lot of respect for everyone on this forum, especially since everyone knows more about cubs than me!!!

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  #89  
Old 01-11-2017, 12:12 AM
mjsoldcub mjsoldcub is offline
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No problem here....Like I said; I'd love. 149 with a loader!!!!!!

Definitely keep the pics coming!!!

Jon the loader has a resiovior, the belt could be tensioned pretty easy with slotted holes and actually pretty easy to switch if he wanted to put on a deck or tiller if it was hooked to a mule....?? But I get having it designated also....
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  #90  
Old 01-11-2017, 01:31 AM
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I hate to be that guy but the way I see it you gone need a tremendous amount of counterweight if you don't install your post at least 6" further and add a rear sub frame. The way it is now all the load is on the front axle since your not in the middle of your wheelbase (22") and you have no sub frame.

I will try to explain in my bad English what I have in mind...

When you load the front bucket the cylinder push on the post to lift the load and since the front braces maintain the post in place the load is transfer directly to the center beam who push on the rear sub frame until it reach the rear counterweight.

I think 2 simple fact apply here.

1-Less counterweight means less chance to snap a rear axle
2-The further the post are from the front axles the less stress they are exposed.
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