The Haunted 129 -_-

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by ironman

Is it possible that this whole pursuit of an electrical issue was a wild goose chase?

Going back and re-reading this whole thread indicates that the s/g always did spin, just that there was a click with the starter belt on and no cranking.

The suggestion of an auto-compression release problem was brought up and quickly discarded.

Now Adam has everything back as original and needs multiple hits on the key switch and it cranks.

Could high compression or some kind of binding issue that overburdens the s/g be another logical train of thought on this problem??

The reason I don't think it's the acr is because he said he can hook the battery directly to the s/g with jumpers and it turns over fine.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by adamo

Oh thanks! Yes it spins the motor. I left the starter generator pulley attached but disconnected the electrical and then used a battery to jump it. It spun the motor.

Originally Posted by olds45512

The reason I don't think it's the acr is because he said he can hook the battery directly to the s/g with jumpers and it turns over fine.

I guess I stand corrected. First time I read Adams reply I took it as him meaning the "starter" motor spun. My bad, sorry.

[R Bedell]

I took it as him meaning the "starter" motor spun. My bad, sorry.

Not to feel bad. When we see it statements like "it won't start", that can mean several different things to the OP. Wnen I read something like this, it can mean several different things from my end. SO......one asks for clarification from the OP and one get can several different responses. To include: (A) they ignore your question, (B) they don't understand what you are asking and lead you down a different path, (C) you ask for pictures, and you get pictures of tractor as a whole. So, this is why is takes 80+ posts and we still don't know what the original problem was. When you can fix this situation, you will be a good man.

[adamo]

Another storm coming and the click is back! Not initially. I had the tank off so I could get my hands in there to work. I turned the key and it did the one turn over then stop. I Figured at this point it was safe to put tank back on and if needed jump the battery even though it is relatively new, its been a week since it ran so not sure. Put tank back on, turned key- one crank then nothing. I used spare battery to jump. Turned key, one turn then click. Nothing but click since. So I went back through the suggestions. With positive lead disconnected to battery, I ran Jumper from battery to solenoid. Click. (grounds were negative terminal on battery to nut holding solenoid.) Then switched ground wire to s/g ground. Still click.

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Hook the jumper cables up to the negative post of the battery, and the other end to the base of the S/G and see if it will crank. (Use only one of the cables, just leave the other off) If so: bad ground.

Did- just click

If not:
Get that wire back out and make up your "test light" again.
You may not be able to use the jumper cables this time, but reach in and see if the headlamp will light on the post on the solenoid where the wire is from the battery. If yes, then, without touching the key at all (off) touch the other big post on the solenoid. Does it light? It should not. Now, turn the key to the start position and hold it. Does the light light? It should. If it does, then check the "A" post one more time. Does it still light?

Working on this now.


Report findings.

[adamo]

The test light thing suggestion- everything worked. Light lit up as it should, when it should. Still just clicking. There is not much I haven't replaced on this tractor yet the problem persists. Next up I guess I will replace all wiring, all safety switches, all gauges, but it's going to take time and money that I don't have at this time. I've already replaced S/G, Solenoid, Battery, Voltage regulator. Wiring and safety switches are the only thing left I think. After I dump all that money into it and if it still doesn't work, feel free to hit me up with offers to part it out. Tractor is in MA. I'm at the end of my ability level with this and there is no repair places around that work on this thing. So my loss is your gain.

[adamo]

I just looked up the cost for all the parts that I have left to replace. It's the end of the line. Taking offers on it now. Message me if any of you have any interest. Again thanks everyone for trying. It was worth a shot.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by adamo

I just looked up the cost for all the parts that I have left to replace. It's the end of the line. Taking offers on it now. Message me if any of you have any interest. Again thanks everyone for trying. It was worth a shot.

Post it in the for sale section. Put a price on it with a location and how to contact you. Just my 2 cents but I would buy a complete wiring harness, a new ignition switch and a new regulator. Still much less than what new throw away lawn mowers cost but do as you see fit. You can also list it on Crags list and Flea Bay. Wish you the best.

[budscub]

Okay, you got the solenoid that clicks, when that solenoid clicks this is what happens.
Inside the solenoid is nothing more than a contactor that does the exact same thing as jumping across the large post of the solenoid with a screw driver.
Now when the solenoid is closed ( clicked ) the only things in that circuit is
Battery cable from battery to the solenoid, the solenoid itself, then the cable from solenoid the S/G .

The current flows though the first section of battery cable to the solenoid, where A) it stops because the solenoid is not being actuated key is off)
B) key switch is turned to starting position, so the contactor is pulled across the 2 larger post.
IN case #2 solenoid contactor is closed now the current continues from the 1st section of battery cable into the second section of cable to the S/G.
With all that said , and knowing your S/g turns the moter over when jumped direct, that leaves only 4 things that it could be, nothing more nothing less.
1) first section of battery cable
2) solenoid is no good, primary side is working ( as proven by the click) but secondary side may be no good.
3) Secondary section of cable ( from Solenoid to S/G)
4) the battery cable on the negative side.

If you think about it, when you Jump to the S/G with cables and it works, then there is no reason why we cannot straighten this out.

As before you stated that by jumping across the solenoid with a screw driver did not spin the starter. Is this correct?


PM me if you need further explanation.

[adamo]

Originally Posted by budscub

Okay, you got the solenoid that clicks, when that solenoid clicks this is what happens.
Inside the solenoid is nothing more than a contactor that does the exact same thing as jumping across the large post of the solenoid with a screw driver.
Now when the solenoid is closed ( clicked ) the only things in that circuit is
Battery cable from battery to the solenoid, the solenoid itself, then the cable from solenoid the S/G .

The current flows though the first section of battery cable to the solenoid, where A) it stops because the solenoid is not being actuated key is off)
B) key switch is turned to starting position, so the contactor is pulled across the 2 larger post.
IN case #2 solenoid contactor is closed now the current continues from the 1st section of battery cable into the second section of cable to the S/G.
With all that said , and knowing your S/g turns the moter over when jumped direct, that leaves only 4 things that it could be, nothing more nothing less.
1) first section of battery cable
2) solenoid is no good, primary side is working ( as proven by the click) but secondary side may be no good.
3) Secondary section of cable ( from Solenoid to S/G)
4) the battery cable on the negative side.

If you think about it, when you Jump to the S/G with cables and it works, then there is no reason why we cannot straighten this out.

As before you stated that by jumping across the solenoid with a screw driver did not spin the starter. Is this correct?


PM me if you need further explanation.

I thought it might be the first section of battery cable. So, using jumper cables, I disconnected hot at battery and jumped from battery + to hot lead on solenoid. Still clicked. So, I think that eliminates 1). But I might be missing something because I'm not really good at all of this so let me know. 2) Solenoid is brand new. Makes same click with old or new solenoid attached. BTW old solenoid is 1 month old and the new one is 2 weeks old. new from store
3) If I disconnect lead from solenoid so S/G at the solenoid and run jumpers from disconnected battery to that lead it turns over.
4) I took off the negative battery cable and cleaned terminal ends, and removed bolt from frame and and cleaned that as well then put back. I also using jumpers connected the negative from battery to engine block, then to ground at the s/g- all same result.

[adamo]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Post it in the for sale section. Put a price on it with a location and how to contact you. Just my 2 cents but I would buy a complete wiring harness, a new ignition switch and a new regulator. Still much less than what new throw away lawn mowers cost but do as you see fit. You can also list it on Crags list and Flea Bay. Wish you the best.

Thanks. Regulator is brand new. Switch and wiring harness are two things I have not replaced with brand new parts yet. Again, the cub has special meaning to me, but if It will never run when I need it too... if no one around can repair it... and because I lack the ability and knowledge to resolve this issue without dumping a lot more money and time into it that I already have... I'm out of options.