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  #81  
Old 01-03-2015, 07:13 PM
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Shrewcub Shrewcub is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Yeah, I would too. I may get a set for the 1811. I haven't put the lights back on since mounting the cab. Would like to get amp draw down a little. I don't care about more light. The 30W's were bright enough for the 10 feet I need to see.
Same deal with my 1864. I'm right at the limits of the alternator with everything running. I may unplug one of the headlights. They suck, and one is right behind the chute anyway.
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1993 Cub Cadet 2064
1988 Cub Cadet 2072
1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20
1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301
1961 IH Cub Cadet O
1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122

JD 2155 w/ 175 loader
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  #82  
Old 01-06-2015, 02:24 PM
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Just out of curiosity...... where did you guys get these lights, and what did they cost? All the ones I've found that look like that were $60/pair. You can buy a lot of regular lights for that kind of $$$. I'd be interested if they weren't so high...... I'm not paying over $100 for lights on my GT's. I have too many.
Sorry guys for the delayed response.

I got the lights on Amazon. $15.99 each.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like you guys thought, I cut off the cast aluminum mounting point from the light. This allowed me to slip the lights into the factory mesh. It did require some slight massaging of the mesh for the light to rest flush. I then made a bracket that uses the holes on the back side of the lights to hold them in place with the mesh and front grill.

I'll get some pics tonight. Thanks for the compliments
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  #83  
Old 01-10-2015, 01:56 PM
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Finally got the tractor out to play in the snow and got the pictures of the light bracket. You can see in the pictures it's just a piece of flat steel I bent to hold the lights in place. The rubber bumpers (made from grommets) are resting on the grill housing. The mesh grill is held in place by the original mounting points which keeps like lights centered. When the screws on the back of the lights are tightened down, the lights pull back against the mesh grill while the flat steel presses against the grill housing. There was a little trial an error to get the compression I wanted. So far they have stayed solid and haven't moved at all.




And a few shots of the tractor after playing in the snow.

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  #84  
Old 01-10-2015, 04:30 PM
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Did you have enough power for the blower?
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  #85  
Old 01-10-2015, 04:39 PM
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Did you have enough power for the blower?
Haha, just barely . I love this blower! I'll have to be careful in heavier stuff or else I'll be smoking belts and replacing shear pins; that engine does not bog. So smooth compared to the single stage I had on my old 782.
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  #86  
Old 01-11-2015, 11:13 PM
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Wow, this is the first I'd seen your post. I don'tusually read all of the replies when they go this long. My hat is off to you! You have done an excellent job on all of your build, I didn't have any problem reading along, couldn't wait to go to next page! You are a very good fabricator. Thank you also for putting up the links to amazon, I have been looking for some type of temp guage to use and its great that it also contains a volt guage. Also, I mean no disrespect to anyone else who posts something they have built. The ingenuity of all the people who post on here is what makes our hobby a joy to follow. Roy
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I have seen the light!.....oh wait, thats the headlights on my 126!
107, 126
Pincor generator
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Brinly rear scraper
snowblower
rear tiller
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  #87  
Old 01-12-2015, 12:40 AM
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Thanks for the pics! I like the bracket. With a few squirts of paint, it would look factory!
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1993 Cub Cadet 2064
1988 Cub Cadet 2072
1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20
1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301
1961 IH Cub Cadet O
1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122

JD 2155 w/ 175 loader
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  #88  
Old 01-12-2015, 12:38 PM
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cyr2872 cyr2872 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b4pw53pw View Post
Wow, this is the first I'd seen your post. I don'tusually read all of the replies when they go this long. My hat is off to you! You have done an excellent job on all of your build, I didn't have any problem reading along, couldn't wait to go to next page! You are a very good fabricator. Thank you also for putting up the links to amazon, I have been looking for some type of temp guage to use and its great that it also contains a volt guage. Also, I mean no disrespect to anyone else who posts something they have built. The ingenuity of all the people who post on here is what makes our hobby a joy to follow. Roy
Thanks Roy
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  #89  
Old 01-12-2015, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Shrewcub View Post
Thanks for the pics! I like the bracket. With a few squirts of paint, it would look factory!
Thanks Shrew. It's about time I paint it. I initially didn't just in case I needed to modify it
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  #90  
Old 03-28-2015, 08:19 PM
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Time for the spring overhaul and upgrades! Over the winter somehow my brake shaft broke in two, easy enough to make up a new one though.


After checking everything over; greasing, changed the hydro fluid and filter (first change after rebuilding everything), I noticed fluid leaking from inlet to the spool valves. I was looking into fixing it when I came across 782CC's post of putting a 3 spool valve on to make the rear lift independent. I decided that was an awesome upgrade and went to work this weekend.
Got the tractor all torn down Friday.



Dual spool valve. Doing this mod will also let me clean up my rats nest of wiring that I scrambled to get finished last spring.



JD 420 valve body arrived a few days ago



Fits pretty good! I'll actually have more clearance between the tank an the valve body with this one than the original dual.


Got a good start on the control handles before my welding gas ran out (Note the booger weld on the middle ) I'll have to finish welding it up on Monday.



I still need to mock up the rear hydraulic cylinder, order a few fittings, and make up the lines going to the rear. Thanks to everyone who has done this modification before and for posting their builds! I couldn't have done it without using the other posts as reference.
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