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  #71  
Old 08-29-2016, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa View Post
The three matching springs are "anti rattle springs" that go in between the PTO basket and the PTO disk. Depending on your patience level, you may invoke the "universal adjective" while trying to install them.
Here is what I found in the manual...

So they are essentially wedged between the friction disc and the basket on the lugs. With the little lip behind the disc?

yeah, I can see installing 3 of these simultaneously being very adjective filled....

OH, and if anyone knows off hand, which way does the engine rotate? And I lock the collar by spinning it the SAME direction, correct?
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #72  
Old 08-29-2016, 10:43 PM
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Viewing the engine from the front of the tractor the engine spins counter clockwise and correct, locking collar locks in that direction
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  #73  
Old 08-30-2016, 11:11 AM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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Originally Posted by vr4Legacy View Post
I got all the parts out of the PTO rebuild kit and I can't figure out what these clip things are for. From what I can tell from the instructions, the snap ring and washer are for newer PTOs with a brake. Are these clips for later PTOs too? I didn't have any on my old PTO.

I painted the button and springs. This thing is gonna be purdy..
I paint the springs to
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  #74  
Old 09-04-2016, 09:52 PM
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Got the PTO together and installed.

The manual says to torque the set screws to 70ft-lbs IIRC. I tried my best with the allen wrench I had lol. EDIT: It's in-lbs... boy am I glad I don't have a socket bit that would fit lol

After cleaning up the shaft, the bearing slid right on. I used antisieze so hopefully, if i have to remove it again, it won't be too bad. I got the PTO on with the clips, it wasn't too bad to get them on.

It looks too purdy to be on this machine

Put the hood back on and adjusted the idle with my new tach. Took me a sec to figure out why it wouldn't rev over 1800 with my new tach. I'm pretty sure it's set for a 2 cylinder engine and reading 1/2 speed. So I set the idle to 1200 (600 on tach). The governor holds it at around 3600 (1800) rpm.

EDIT: I just saw the 149 service manual says 1000 rpm for idle. I was going with the Kohler manual. I'll drop that down tomorrow.

I also noticed some large nicks in the front axle (or what ever it's called). They're deep and several, not sure how the heck they could have gotten there. It also looks like it's bent a little more on one side than the other. I always thought the tractor looked like it leaned a little. I've got an offer on a 1250 parts tractor so I may swap that out.

Next up replace the hydro filter and test er out. I checked the fluid and couldn't feel any with my pinky in the filler on the back of the differential

I assume it's full when it's at the fill hole, same as any differential?

Gonna go buy some blasphemous hy-tran knock off and fill it up tomorrow. I'm guessing that will make the transmission just a tad bit smoother.

I'll take any input on which cheap brand is less cheap. Here are my two options, Rural King is a lii closer for me.

http://www.ruralking.com/harvest-kin...allon-jug.html

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...ic-fluid-2-gal
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File Type: jpg IMG_4162.jpg (30.1 KB, 103 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4179.jpg (25.6 KB, 104 views)
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #75  
Old 09-04-2016, 10:00 PM
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I put the tractor supply hy tran copy in my manual lift 125 about 4 years ago and it's been working fine. Yes, fill to the bottom of the hole.

PTO looks good. Those notches might be from belt whip.
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  #76  
Old 09-05-2016, 01:22 PM
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Filled up the transmission and replaced the filter. Now I need to figure out the directional controls.

The lever drifts down when the brake is released. It won't stay engaged if I let off the lever, and if I take it above a low speed forward and let go, it seems to just take off and go into full speed by itself.

The linkages are all loose and sloppy, I see a couple bolts that likely need tightened, but how do I tighten up the cam assembly in the rear?

I'm going to look through the forum and the service manual.
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #77  
Old 09-05-2016, 08:20 PM
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IHinIN IHinIN is offline
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There's a pinch bolt at the base of the speed control to adjust the tension on the control lever. You can see it in this pic next to the steering column.

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1964 Model 100 w/ K301 12hp and custom hydraulics
1972 Model 149 turned 129 w/ K301 12hp, triple hydraulics, 66 series clone
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  #78  
Old 09-05-2016, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by IHinIN View Post
There's a pinch bolt at the base of the speed control to adjust the tension on the control lever. You can see it in this pic next to the steering column.
Thanks for the pic!

I was looking at the service manual and kept seeing a nut at the bottom, I skimmed past the older setup with the bolt.

I tried to get at it, but didn't have any luck with my standard size wrenches. 3/8 was too big and 5/16 seemed too small. Either the nut it rounded off or it's an odd size (which I find unlikely considering I can disassemble this tractor with half a dozen wrenches lol)

Do you know off hand what size it is? I was trying an open end wrench, I'll try to get a socket back there and see if that helps.

Also, it looks like the back side of the bolt is a square drive? Does that sound right? Didn't look like an allen wrench.

But, I'm also afraid it's as tight as it's gonna get looking at the attached pic, it looks like the outer edges are already touching... Perhaps I can put some sort of a shim in there if I get it loose.

Thanks again for the help!
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__________________
-Jason

Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #79  
Old 09-06-2016, 01:03 PM
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IHinIN IHinIN is offline
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I don't recall what size it is. There is supposed to be a plastic sleeve on the shaft. If yours is gone, that explains why it is tightened down with the ends touching.
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1964 Model 100 w/ K301 12hp and custom hydraulics
1972 Model 149 turned 129 w/ K301 12hp, triple hydraulics, 66 series clone
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  #80  
Old 09-06-2016, 01:33 PM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr4Legacy View Post
Thanks for the pic!

I was looking at the service manual and kept seeing a nut at the bottom, I skimmed past the older setup with the bolt.

I tried to get at it, but didn't have any luck with my standard size wrenches. 3/8 was too big and 5/16 seemed too small. Either the nut it rounded off or it's an odd size (which I find unlikely considering I can disassemble this tractor with half a dozen wrenches lol)

Do you know off hand what size it is? I was trying an open end wrench, I'll try to get a socket back there and see if that helps.

Also, it looks like the back side of the bolt is a square drive? Does that sound right? Didn't look like an allen wrench.

But, I'm also afraid it's as tight as it's gonna get looking at the attached pic, it looks like the outer edges are already touching... Perhaps I can put some sort of a shim in there if I get it loose.

Thanks again for the help!
The newer 149s had the nut on the bottom They did A up grade
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