The Haunted 129 -_- - Page 8

Alvy · #71 01-27-2016, 04:44 PM

Jon do you know how many dc amps the sealed beam takes compared to the initial start of the s/g? Starting to lean towards Gary's theory of the bad positive cable/connection but the light getting dim would be evidence of that unless it's enough amps for the light but not starter

adamo · #72 01-27-2016, 05:03 PM

Alright. None of you are going to believe me when I say this, but it's the truth. I went out there to try some of the next steps Jon suggested. Again, I'm not very mechanical, so I have to re check every time I do something to make sure I put it back the way it was to keep all things consistent. One of the last things Jon suggested involved hooking up a headlight to the A terminal to see if it would be bright when I turn the key. It did. His next set of directions involved that as well. So I wanted to ensure that last night I reconnected the light properly. So I turned the key and turned on the lights. They worked. Then for giggles, since I was right there, I turned the key again to see if I would hear the click. It turned over. Again- nothing external connected, just the way it was wired before. I kept at it till it started and I let it run for a while. Shut it off. Turned the key again and it started right up. Now obviously I have issues with this. Since we did not change anything from before and now it starts I have a feeling like the problem, whatever it is will come back. Either way... I got goose bumps when it started. Separate issue, but when it turned over, it would turn once, then not move again. I'd release the key turn again and it would do the same thing. After about 5 turned of the key it would turn a couple of times and then it started. Belt does not seem to tight. O well I should just be thankful... And grateful to you guys!

adamo · #73 01-27-2016, 05:36 PM

And somewhere I'm sure this man appreciates your help. He passed his love of Cub Cadets on to my dad and me, and I'm trying to do the same. This pic is a few years old but it still looks relatively the same. Thanks guys. If it does it again I will just pick up on this thread where we left off.

finsruskw · #74 01-27-2016, 05:48 PM

Adam, Next time this happens, try wiggling the connection to the ignition switch while you hae the key turned to the start position. Sometimes the terminals are corroded back there and do not make good connections.

may be all that is needed is to unplug the terminal from the switch and re-plug to get better continuity.
Extreme cases require more cleaning of the switch male lugs as well as the female connectors in the actual terminal.

I feel the clicking you are hearing is the solenoid "telling" you that it is not getting enough juice through the circuit to do it's job of relaying the power to the starter. Kinda like the sound one hears when the battery is pretty much crapped out.

Good Luck!

Sam Mac · #75 01-27-2016, 05:53 PM

Glad it now runs but I suggest that you find the cause of your problem. These things are not all that complex. Starter generator, voltage regulator, a couple of switches, wiring harness, points, coil and condenser and a battery is pretty much it.

TheSaturnV · #76 01-27-2016, 05:56 PM

Well that's just awesome. I think you disturbed the right wires to finally get enough juice flowing to the S/G.

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamo

Separate issue, but when it turned over, it would turn once, then not move again. I'd release the key turn again and it would do the same thing. After about 5 turned of the key it would turn a couple of times and then it started. Belt does not seem to tight.

Or maybe this has been the main issue all along. What did you replace the S/G with? A refurb, Chinese, or used off ebay?

twoton · #77 01-27-2016, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

brand new wiring harnesses available for sale online. They are provided by cottage industry folks that have really done their homework regarding gauges, connectors and proper color schemes. Once you get this gremlin chased off, you might consider a brand new set o' wirin'.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...703#post284703

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamo

.... it started right up.

Good to hear!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

... I suggest that you find the cause of your problem.

X2

budscub · #78 01-27-2016, 07:58 PM

I'm still have the suspicion of that positive cable. The head light is a great tool and works great for the testing purposes. But I still believe you have a loose crimp on the positive cable end. Or there is a corrosion build up just under the insulation that is causing a resistance in that cable. The head lamp at 35w will draw about 2.1 Amp. the starter generator can draw upwards of 70 ~90 amps but, I'm not certain on that as I haven't put a large ammeter on one while cranking. A resistance in the cable can rob enough current flow to hinder the starter. When this happens again, check that positive battery cable. you could also use one lead of your booster cables to go from the battery + to the battery terminal on the solenoid, then try to start it. That will take the first section of the battery cable out of the equation. Good luck. Hope this gets you spirits back up, an know that the problem can be found.

ironman · #79 01-28-2016, 11:50 AM

Is it possible that this whole pursuit of an electrical issue was a wild goose chase?

Going back and re-reading this whole thread indicates that the s/g always did spin, just that there was a click with the starter belt on and no cranking.

The suggestion of an auto-compression release problem was brought up and quickly discarded.

Now Adam has everything back as original and needs multiple hits on the key switch and it cranks.

Could high compression or some kind of binding issue that overburdens the s/g be another logical train of thought on this problem??

ford4150 · #80 01-28-2016, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

Is it possible that this whole pursuit of an electrical issue was a wild goose chase?

Going back and re-reading this whole thread indicates that the s/g always did spin, just that there was a click with the starter belt on and no cranking.

The suggestion of an auto-compression release problem was brought up and quickly discarded.

Now Adam has everything back as original and needs multiple hits on the key switch and it cranks.

Could high compression or some kind of binding issue that overburdens the s/g be another logical train of thought on this problem??

I agree. Need to separate a mechanical issue from an electrical one.