Rebuilding my 100 - Page 7

Methos · #61 04-26-2011, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by litlmikeyl

I took my motor into the machine shop a few days ago and I got a call today saying the crank in my K241 had been ground before and now the main journal is .012" under nominal, so he can't re-grind it for a .010 rod. This was his first step, so I'm not out anything yet money-wise, but I'm not 100% sure what to do from here. So far, the rest of the block looks good enough to save with either a .010-over bore with an absolute max of .020-over being needed.

Looking for options from those who have gone down this road, or had machine work done, before.

He did give me a few options though; 1) grind the crank to .020 under & use an aftermarket rod sized for this - if a rod exists. A friend of his mentioned this idea to him, 2) spray-weld my crank, then grind it for .010 under and use the new .010-under rod I currently have, 3) find another good crank that has enough meat on it that it can be ground appropiately for a .010 rod.

I plan on using this tractor as it was originally intended, so it will see its use and see some long hours doing all kinds of chores. I did find an aftermarket .020-under rod on Ebay though I'm not terribly confident in its quality in regards to craftsmanship & longevity.

Place an ad in the wanted section of the site and or call our site sponsers. Should be pretty easy to get one.

litlmikeyl · #62 05-01-2011, 07:16 PM

Sorry about the slow progress with the rebuild. My time/money budget is being controlled by the money issue as of current. But there is still some progress nonetheless.

Thank you to everyone who answered the wanted ad I posted here for a crankshaft. I've never had that kind of response from any posting, anywhere, ever. It was more than greatly appreciated.

Thanks to the guys in the tool room at work I was able to get my clutch plates cleaned up to use again. Excellent work, especially at the price of FREE!! Also got a hold of a good crankshaft that I can use in my K241 to replace my old, all ready ground down piece that was in the motor. At the same time, the gentleman who sold me the crank was able to give me a pair of axle tubes & shafts off of a hydro rear end (I think it was a 107) that have the Torrington bearings in them. A nice addition to make my machine last a little longer.

Given the clutch needs a total rebuild & it's all ready apart, I was thinking of putting a stronger main spring in instead of the stock spring - the Midwest SC red spring to be precise. I plan to use my 100 for almost everything, including plowing & some tugging work. My Dad & I move project cars (1/2 ton P/U size & smaller) and other things around their house with our Cubs so they will & do pull various things. Though maybe a heavier spring would be a nice addition. Curious what others think of this idea.

Otherwise that's it for now. Some new pictures too. Refurb'd plates, the "new" crank, a shot of the wear on my driveshaft & the hydro axles & tubes.

Saw JeffD's post about painting his 129 & 100 red. Thinking I might do the same when I repaint my tractor because it looks SWEET!! and to aggitate the green guys who live around me. *sigh* I'm the only Cub in the whole subdivision (about 200 houses) with more than a dozen & a half green tractors that I know of so far.

JeffD · #63 05-01-2011, 07:47 PM

Look like it is coming along nice. Also looks like we got our 100's at the same place.

Jeff

CC1450 · #64 05-01-2011, 09:20 PM

looks like some good progress to me! Glad to hear you found a good crank too, that is one less thing you will have to worry about.

litlmikeyl · #65 07-30-2011, 12:21 AM

Its been a while since I posted any updates on my progress, so here goes. The gentleman who sold me a good used crank also gave me a set of axle tubes & matching shafts that used the roller bearings instead of the bushings for a good price. I also received my motor back from the shop about a month ago and last week started putting it back together. The stats on that came out to be:

- Cylinder bored .020" over
- Crank cut .010" under
- New Kohler .010" under rod
- New Kohler .020" over piston & rings
- New exhaust valve (my old one couldn't be saved - burnt)
- Milled head (it was about .040" flatness before milling... eek!)
- Removed all of the keys from the good crank

I did get the bearing-equipped axle tubes & shafts in the transmission and sealed it back up with new gaskets. The axle bearings looked good though I did install new seals to be on the safe side. I didn't fill the transmission with fluid yet 'cause I may need to pull the shafts out to chase/fix the threads for the wheel studs since I only can get 3 on one side and 2 on the other to thread in halfway decent. The rearend that the parts came off of has been outside for a while so the threads have some moderate rust.

Decided I'm not going to paint the tractor this year and will only paint the motor & associated parts and put it back in the tractor. I'll save the rest of the painting for spring when I have a few weeks to wait for the snow to melt and the ground to dry out before mowing starts up again.

As a funny sidenote, its becoming more apparent that it is easier, cheaper, faster & more user friendly to order parts from our site sponsers (I'm a Cub Classics fan now

) than going to my Cub Cadet dealer who is 4 miles up the road. I find that odd as I figured the dealer have better service & pricing than someone online.

Plus a bunch of new pictures. Enjoy everyone.

Methos · #66 07-30-2011, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by litlmikeyl

As a funny sidenote, its becoming more apparent that it is easier, cheaper, faster & more user friendly to order parts from our site sponsers (I'm a Cub Classics fan now

) than going to my Cub Cadet dealer who is 4 miles up the road. I find that odd as I figured the dealer have better service & pricing than someone online.

Plus a bunch of new pictures. Enjoy everyone.

Thanks for buying from our site sponsers! The thing that sets them apart for most local dealers is their passion for these cubs! They are part of the hobby and just like us they are out working and playing with their cubs. Current real world experence you can't beat it!

Methos · #67 07-30-2011, 07:19 AM

Mike great updates! Things are looking great! Keep up the updates coming! I've been enjoying your build!

litlmikeyl · #68 07-30-2011, 02:03 PM

I totally forgot about my other new parts!

About the same time I got the motor back from the machine shop I found a sleeve hitch, lift bar & rockshaft for a 147 on Ebay for a reasonable price. It's in good shape with the usual wear and one slightly bent deck lift arm that can be easily repaired. I know the rockshaft is meant for an electric lift, and instead of using the stock NF Hyd. lift unit (hoping to save the it for another Cub) and put a custom setup similar to Adam's (IHinIN) on my 100. Also hoping to order the rest of parts I need to put my mo-chine back together sometime today.

ACecil · #69 07-30-2011, 02:42 PM

Very nice! Love the Tru Powers! Thanks for the update!

litlmikeyl · #70 08-07-2011, 01:38 AM

My fiance' left for the day to hang out with her mom & do wedding stuff, so that left me all alone for the day.

I was able to get the rotating assembly and the rest of the interior parts back into the block, clean & rebuild the carb, do the throttle shaft bushing upgrade and clean and primer the motor. Also picked up a length of threaded rod & lug nuts to make wheel studs instead of using the stock wheel bolts.

If the humidity stays low enough tomorrow

I should be able to shoot some color on the motor, get all of the small pieces & covers that fit on the motor along with primer the tins for the motor and finish the wheel stud mod. Hoping for a good day.

Lots of new pictures guys. Enjoy!