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  #61  
Old 02-07-2026, 06:31 PM
Ambush Ambush is online now
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Back to the hand brakes now. I cut a 2” washer from UHMW to act as a spacer out from the frame and to make sure it wouldn’t rub and rattle metal to metal. The bushing is about .025” longer than the washer and block together so I can tighten the 3/8” pivot bolt up and the block still moves freely.
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  #62  
Old 02-07-2026, 06:35 PM
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The linkage is about done with a little extra length for final adjustments. I won’t paint until I have the grips and I’m sure I’m done welding and any bending that may be needed
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  #63  
Old 02-09-2026, 02:55 PM
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Pretty much just piddling around doing little jobs today. Added a return spring to the brake calliper considering the added tension of the new hand brake.

Put some loom over the hydraulic tubes in certain areas to prevent chafing and rattles and made a couple clamps as well.
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  #64  
Old 02-17-2026, 02:15 PM
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I was on a road trip last week and in my travels I picked up a complete three turn, Ross steering box and column from a JD 300. The plan was to just swap the worm into my box after lengthening the shaft. Same spline and thread in the steering wheel. The JD setup is heavier all around. Cross bolt is 3/4” as compared to 5/8”, the follower is bigger and the plate is 5/16” rather than 1/4”.

But then the bad news. The worm moves the follower stud in the wrong direction! Think it as left hand and right hand threads. So that was disappointing.

Guess I’m still on the hunt for a three turn Ross steering shaft. Crap!!
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  #65  
Old 02-19-2026, 10:58 PM
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I got the hand brake lever knobs in and they were exactly what I needed. They did have some kind of unidentifiable thread inside that was close enough to jam onto a 3/8” UNC. I machined down a short stub of 3/8” to 5/16” on one end and drilled a 5/16” hole into the end of the lever. Cut into that hole and plug welded the stud in then cut to length.

I welded the handles onto the pivot block, and gave them a bit of a kink for more hand clearance. All painted up and almost done.
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  #66  
Old 02-19-2026, 11:02 PM
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I also took a 1/4” off each side of the pan for just a bit more clearance. I’m hoping to be able to take the pan off and on without removing the levers. A quick sand, cleaning and touch up paint in the edges should be the end of that.
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  #67  
Old 02-19-2026, 11:32 PM
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The hydro cooling fan on these Cubs is often a minor frustration because they seem to snap off a blade every time you look at it sideways. And you have to take the driveline out to change it. Mine was only missing two out of five blades by now. I forget how much I paid for it as a direct replacement but it was super brittle even new. I know you can buy a custom one that is split so you can change it without removing the drive shaft. But I’m all about home grown and don’t mind spending hours to save $40.

I bought two fans off Amazon for $9 to my door and I had a 5/8” bore hub for welding in sprockets.
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  #68  
Old 02-19-2026, 11:34 PM
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I machined a boss on the hub and bored a thick washer to fit that and tacked them together. Then drilled and taped four 10/24 holes. Then drilled 5/8” through the fans to slide over the shaft and four matching holes. Then another washer to sandwich the fan
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  #69  
Old 02-19-2026, 11:38 PM
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Now if I want to change the fan, I’ll break the old fan off, cut the spare in half and bolt it to the hub.

I did have one oversight on my part, which seems to happen more often as I get older. Anyone that can guess what it is gets a Happy Face and a Star.
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  #70  
Old 02-20-2026, 04:26 AM
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Great job on your build!

Your oversite is ..... the fan blade is on backwards.
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