New 3240 owner with stuck transaxle issue

[Shotgun Wedding]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Let this thread show why we suggest not buying tractors made after like 1995 or so.

Sorry for the bad luck guys. They just don't make them like they used to.

I would disagree with this statement. This is an isolated case. If your logic holds, the first time a rear axle (without the aftermarket axle brace) cracked, then all Cyclops tractors would be in the category.

Certain machines, like cars/trucks have problems. One cannot write them off , it makes one sound like Homer Simpson's grandfather talking about "I remember when..."

There is good, there is bad, there is ugly. If old Cub Cadets were not continually breaking down, this web site would have as much traffic as a cul de sac! It's full of pre 95 CC breaking down, requiring fixes etc. Engines, transmissions, trunions, rag joints, mower decks ALL breaking down.

Granted, this tranny is young for this type of problem, but I don't think its endemic. There are thousands of 3000 series tractors out there. One off, two off at best.

[t6430gr]

Originally Posted by Shotgun Wedding

I would disagree with this statement. This is an isolated case. If your logic holds, the first time a rear axle (without the aftermarket axle brace) cracked, then all Cyclops tractors would be in the category.

Certain machines, like cars/trucks have problems. One cannot write them off , it makes one sound like Homer Simpson's grandfather talking about "I remember when..."

There is good, there is bad, there is ugly. If old Cub Cadets were not continually breaking down, this web site would have as much traffic as a cul de sac! It's full of pre 95 CC breaking down, requiring fixes etc. Engines, transmissions, trunions, rag joints, mower decks ALL breaking down.

Granted, this tranny is young for this type of problem, but I don't think its endemic. There are thousands of 3000 series tractors out there. One off, two off at best.

I tend to agree with you Shotgun Wedding. I don't have any regrets, but would like to make some sort of positive contribution to this thread that doesn't stray anyone away from an otherwise great tractor. What I'm thinking about doing is finding a camera that can fit a small budget, share what can be done to avoid this issue, or use it to negotiate the price, and give a tool to someone that may think about buying the same used model. I'm seeking a camera with some flexibility, be small enough to fit inside the diff case, and show what can be seen inside of a used transaxle to determine its condition. I would love to do this and post some pictures. I know the back side of the threaded holes can be seen with the transmission empty and the rear plate and dip stick tube removed. Being able to see how far out the bolts have moved (or IF they have moved) would be beneficial. This could also be employed for a preventative measure when changing the fluid, especially since the Rotella substitute is much cheaper.

What I need is a camera that can at least do this:
1. Be around $50
2. Connect with USB to laptop
3. Fit diameter of transmission fill hole
4. Offer a little bit of flexibility
5. Possibly offer its own light source

[ivel03]

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-End.../dp/B007UZ6RVO

[Oak]

I pulled the fill tube off of my GT3100 and used my Milwaukee scope but I can only see the left side. This machine does not have the locking rear and they used what looks like nylon lock nuts on the 4 bolts that worked loose on yours. I could see that with just looking down the hole.

DSCN1724.jpg DSCN1727.jpg

[ryanpei]

Well...

Looks like I'm in the same boat on my 3240.
Starting tear down tomorrow or Friday.
Starting with drain and "hole inspection" of the infamous "#17" bolts.

And like you, anxious to have a functional mower.

So...any last words of wisdom?
Things you would do differently?
Did you find not taking of pump helped in the end?
Any steps you would cut out?
Other advice?


Thanks for doing this post.
I, and I'm sure many others, will appreciate it.

R

Originally Posted by t6430gr

I tend to agree with you Shotgun Wedding. I don't have any regrets, but would like to make some sort of positive contribution to this thread that doesn't stray anyone away from an otherwise great tractor. What I'm thinking about doing is finding a camera that can fit a small budget, share what can be done to avoid this issue, or use it to negotiate the price, and give a tool to someone that may think about buying the same used model. I'm seeking a camera with some flexibility, be small enough to fit inside the diff case, and show what can be seen inside of a used transaxle to determine its condition. I would love to do this and post some pictures. I know the back side of the threaded holes can be seen with the transmission empty and the rear plate and dip stick tube removed. Being able to see how far out the bolts have moved (or IF they have moved) would be beneficial. This could also be employed for a preventative measure when changing the fluid, especially since the Rotella substitute is much cheaper.

What I need is a camera that can at least do this:
1. Be around $50
2. Connect with USB to laptop
3. Fit diameter of transmission fill hole
4. Offer a little bit of flexibility
5. Possibly offer its own light source

[Sam Mac]

Hope you can save yours, this is starting to get concerning. I'm wondering if maybe it would be good a preventative measure for the owners of these to pull the rear and address this problem before it becomes a problem. Just thinking out loud.

[Thumper807]

I think you will find that the pump has to be removed in order to gain access to the "Gear Assembly, Pinion 13T". This part prevents the removal of the main gear assembly.

Of course if the bolts just appear to be loose with no "floating" debris" (like I had) there may not be a reason to pull everything as you might be able to remove, clean, locktite, retorque the bolts from there.

I have my tractor back together just sitting in the garage bay while I ponder what to do next. I am actually considering trying to cover that hole with a piece of steel. Might drive/tap a few holes and screw it in with some sealant or simply jbweld it in place. Spring for new bolts and a differential cover and give it a whirl. The bevel gear has some decent scallops, but I am not willing to invest deeply for the shape this transmission is in.

Figure the worse that can happen is it will "eat itself to death" on the first run around the yard, but then at least I can say I tried.

I wish you luck and I hope you post your results.

[cnsolutions]

Originally Posted by t6430gr

I tend to agree with you Shotgun Wedding. I don't have any regrets, but would like to make some sort of positive contribution to this thread that doesn't stray anyone away from an otherwise great tractor. What I'm thinking about doing is finding a camera that can fit a small budget, share what can be done to avoid this issue, or use it to negotiate the price, and give a tool to someone that may think about buying the same used model. I'm seeking a camera with some flexibility, be small enough to fit inside the diff case, and show what can be seen inside of a used transaxle to determine its condition. I would love to do this and post some pictures. I know the back side of the threaded holes can be seen with the transmission empty and the rear plate and dip stick tube removed. Being able to see how far out the bolts have moved (or IF they have moved) would be beneficial. This could also be employed for a preventative measure when changing the fluid, especially since the Rotella substitute is much cheaper.

What I need is a camera that can at least do this:
1. Be around $50
2. Connect with USB to laptop
3. Fit diameter of transmission fill hole
4. Offer a little bit of flexibility
5. Possibly offer its own light source

I would recommend the Snap On it has the smallest camera that I have found but it's over your budget. I think it is around 600.00. The thing works great I have used it on a lot of engines.

[ryanpei]

Well....I'm into it!
Fenders and seat off, hubs off,
Transmission dropped.
Have not cracked it yet.

Pictures, and results, will follow.

[ryanpei]

OK. Trans is cracked open.
As suspected, all four bolts are loose, and have chewed up the ring gear.

So here is where I am.

Trans removed from tractor (should be interesting to get this back together)!
Case open.
Diff actuator removed.

So...why can't I pull the left axle/diff assembly toward me??? It won't come out. What am I missing? Do I need to send the entire right axle through, or should the axles "split" at this point?

Help.

Thanks