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  #61  
Old 02-19-2015, 05:39 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Glad that it's not the pump. Sometimes we go for the expensive item and then it turns out to be something simple.

I'd take your existing cable and give it a good shot of WD-40 or Power Blaster before replacing it. Back in my concrete mixer days we used to lube the control cables with antifreeze.
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  #62  
Old 02-19-2015, 08:10 PM
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I'm thinking the kill cable was the problem the whole time. Glad it's fixed! Try lubing that cable up, it may free up. Having the kill at the end of the throttle is an IH thing, and it's cool. I'm all for the choke cable if it doesn't work. (Not that it matters, as it's your machine.)
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  #63  
Old 02-20-2015, 07:04 AM
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I will be happy if I can start it when the block heater is on.

I took the cables and the throttle lever out of the dash last night. I did get the cables freed up, but it seems like the throttle cable has a bend in it somewhere. It only has a very small area where it actually moves easy. I think everything is just getting worn due to age. I thought about it all night and this morning I ordered new cables and a new NOS throttle lever. I'm going to put everything back to the way it should be, but with new parts. I was also sick of looking at my broken dash, so I bought a new one for a 1872. It just needs to be modified slightly for the 1572.
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  #64  
Old 02-21-2015, 05:15 AM
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Yesterday I found out way I wasn't getting a full pull on the shut off cable. Item #28 was missing. I'm positive now someone has had this apart before. It's a spacer and without it the throttle lever flops around quiet a lot and will not pull the shut off cable. Of course the part is NLA so I just spun one up on the lathe quick. Atleast the listing was kind enough to give the dimensions. I got some new parts ordered, but I had to put it back together because unfortunately I think I will need it today.

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  #65  
Old 02-21-2015, 08:48 AM
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but did it start?
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  #66  
Old 02-21-2015, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt383mag View Post
but did it start?
I have yet to see any difference in the way it starts. I had the garage around 70° last night for about 3 hours while I was working on it and I still had to get out my heat gun to warm the engine. By the time it started the whole garage was a black fog. I was waiting for my furnace to ignite all the diesel in the air.

I need the tractor today because we're getting more snow. Tomorrow I want to run through the valves and check the injector timing. My block heater will be there Monday and if it will start with that I'm just going to leave it alone until spring when I won't need the tractor to clear snow.
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  #67  
Old 02-21-2015, 09:16 AM
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I thought you said it was fixed??
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  #68  
Old 02-21-2015, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
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I thought you said it was fixed??
i think he meant he fixed the cable thing
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  #69  
Old 02-21-2015, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt383mag View Post
i think he meant he fixed the cable thing

He said this is post #50:

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Originally Posted by sbauerz28 View Post
Not sure what I did but I put it all back together and it fired right up with only about 15 seconds on the glow plugs.
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  #70  
Old 02-21-2015, 05:58 PM
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Sorry that post was misleading but in that same post I mentioned the garage was warm for a few hours. A few posts after that I mentioned that I tried to cold start it and it didn't start. I'm getting to the point that if I can get this block heater in and get it to start when I need it I will be happy.
Today I ran though the valve lash. No major adjustments were needed. One valve was a .001 or so tight and a few were a .001 or loose. Nothing major.

J-Mech
You know if a diesel shop will be able to test the injector pump. I was thinking I may call next week and have them test it.
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