Brinly Hitch Adapter Plans - Page 7

T-Mo · #61 08-03-2010, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain Heritage

That is what was wrong with it! It looked odd when you had it attached to the back of the tractor - it looked like it was at a weird angle. Now it all makes sense. I bet it would change the way it works for sure! Can't wait for some action shots as well as to see that hitch all painted up.

Yeah, it did look like something was wrong. It didn't occur to me that the hitch thingy was on upside down. The label was right side up that way (see the red circle in picture 1). So I just assumed it was on correctly. For those who don't know what we're talking about it's item number 1 in the second picture (diagram).

johncub7172 · #62 08-04-2010, 01:07 PM

Here is a spring I found. Too short. L= 4.003 and W= .959 .

T-Mo · #63 08-06-2010, 09:56 PM

Here are some pictures of it painted up - sorry for the bad paint job, but I'm not a painter.

As for action shots, that will have to wait until I can get someone to take them. I did try it out some more this evening - it will need some weight to really make it efficient. Once I get the helper spring made and put on, I will strap some concrete blocks onto it to weigh it down.

ACecil · #64 08-06-2010, 10:37 PM

Your hitch looks nice, Terry! Great job.

TEET · #65 08-06-2010, 10:47 PM

Great Job Terry! How much are you charging for these again?..caugh..caugh :biggrin2.gif:

Jeff (teet)

Mountain Heritage · #66 08-22-2010, 09:19 AM

cub 100 with sleeve hitch.jpg

Now here is my question.....

Looking at the above picture (which I hocked from another site), the two verticle pieces of flat steel that attach to the top "pin" to lift the bottom part of the hitch. Are they not supposed to be running as close to plumb as possible if the hitch is in that middle position? Only reason I ask this is shouldn't the top "pin" be longer in this example to make these verticle pieces of steel run straight up and down? Doesn't this affect the length of travel on your hitch? I am just comparing this to a normal 3pth on a farm tractor using the top link as the adjustment point to move the implement forward and back or up and down depending on what implement you have on. Considering you shorten the top link up when using a plow to bring the tail of the plow up or lengthen it to push it further into the ground to run more true and level with the front of the plow. Just thought if these pieces were running more plum it would give you more up and down travel would it not?

Merk · #67 08-22-2010, 10:09 AM

Mountain Heritage

You are correct. Here is an example of my set up.:

I see better performace out of a hitch if the lift straps are more vertical. You need to have some float build into the lift straps for so it don't bend or break parts.

T-Mo · #68 08-23-2010, 07:41 AM

The dimensions were taken from other hitch plans, so the bottom location is to those prints. The upper 3 point hitch rod is actually for a tiller, I don't know if the upper hitch rod for a Brinly is different or not.

The float on the tractor may or may not be sufficient enough to keep things from bending. Making the slotted link would be easy enough, or even a chain could be use.

Having a vertical or plum link will yield a slight advantage in the amount of "lift". If I were to design another one, I would either bring in the hole in the tab for the link or I might just make a longer upper rod which should yield even more lift.

Mountain Heritage · #69 08-23-2010, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merk

Mountain Heritage

You are correct. Here is an example of my set up.:

I see better performace out of a hitch if the lift straps are more vertical. You need to have some float build into the lift straps for so it don't bend or break parts.

Ok, so I am not out to lunch in my way of thinking when I thought the lift straps need to be vertical - that's comforting to hear! So when I drill out the holes to allow for it to float, is an elongated hole of about an inch or so good or does it need to be less? I assume you put the end of the lift straps to the top pin so you can observe it easier when plowing to see how it is reacting in the ground when plowing? Making it easier to do any fine tunning adjustments or does it matter?

You like the style of that hitch you have? I have to make mine yet and was trying to decide if I want to bend the bottom part or weld it up?? I like the idea of it having "soft" bent corners for two reasons....less chance of any trash catching on them as well, since I am a clutz some days....will save my shins or head or some other body part when I am working around it! DUH! I see your hitch doesn't have any cross bracing like others have been talking about - have you had any issues of it bending or plowing certain ground and wonder if it will come out ok without any bends? Around here, I am lucky there is VERY minimal rocks where I would be plowing so the chances of me bending mine would be slim I think. Just curious...since I might be lucky someday in my life to attend a plow day and there will likely be rocks there to contend with.

johncub7172 · #70 06-10-2012, 01:08 AM

bump up,.....good information here!