Dave's 1650 Project

[CC1650Dave]

I got the outside of the switch to start turning, then kind of worked it for a while, and it pulled back. Wire brushed the exposed part of the shaft and shot it with some WD40, now it's working fine.

[CC1650Dave]

I got that mower deck disassembled today. A 1/2" drive electric impact wrench was the key, thanks Matt. I was able to pick one up from my Dad's place.

One of the things that messed me up was getting a hold of the proper nuts for removal. You have to put the 1-1/4" wrench on the nut that is welded to the pulley, and then a 1-1/8" impact socket on the blade nut. I figured that out after sourcing the mower deck owners manual here on OCC.

The center spindle is turning now, but I'm not sure if it's going to be any good. I'll have to do some more work on it.

Got the rest of the hardware off, a few things needed cutting because the nuts and bolts were so shot. Then I took it in to the local sandblaster. So far, it doesn't look like I have any rust-through between the plate and the deck, but I'll know for sure after blasting. I did find an area where the deck was cracked near one of those runners welded to the front.

I'll get some pics when it comes back from sandblasting.

[CC1650Dave]

Quick question guys - would a CCC 1512 D use the same attachments as my 1650? I've done some research but no solid answers yet...

[F7Hooligan]

Dave, I am amazed at the amount of progress you have made in just a couple of weeks. I want to thank you for this photo journal of your restoration. I recently picked up a 1650 and a 149 for next to nothing with a tiller and a blade I wanted. The 1650 is rough but runs good so I plan on restoring the 149 first. The time you are taking to document your project will help me immensly. I will try to do the same when I start mine this winter, although my progress will most likely be much slower.

I love to see these old tractors saved from the scrap heap and brought back to life.

Thanks Again...

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

Quick question guys - would a CCC 1512 D use the same attachments as my 1650? I've done some research but no solid answers yet...

Basically, yes. Snowthrowers and mower decks would need to have drive pulleys changed out, but would work otherwise. I'd highly recommend a diesel CC if you've found one. I had two, sold one, and wish I hadn't sold it. My 782D (mechanically identical to a 1512) is the most fuel-efficient tractor I have; a couple weeks ago I mowed for about 1.5 hours and didn't use more than a couple quarts of diesel. I buy fuel for it once a year...

[CC1650Dave]

F7 - thanks, I wasn't aware that I'm making such good progress.

I'm kind of finding myself bouncing around from task to task - it works for me. Sometimes I get to feeling a bit overwhelmed (or frustrated) by something I'm working on, so I just let it go for a while and go work on something else - usually something simpler that I can complete rather easily. It kind of gives you a feeling of accomplishment and encourages you to keep working.

That 1650 looks pretty good from the picture, probably in better shape than mine! What's "rough" about it? Nice score on the tractors and implements.

[Sugarmaker]

Dave,
Very nice shots of your restoration project! Thanks for taking the time to post these. Some of the shots of the valves will help as I evaluate the 147 engine.
I do the same thing bounce from one thing to another. Now when something is not clear I come here for info. That helps a lot.
Regards,
Chris

[CC1650Dave]

Today I broke down the mower deck spindles. While I neglected to take pictures when I removed the blades and took the assemblies off the deck, I have mocked it up here. This is how I got these things off and took them apart.

To remove the assembly from the deck, the first step is to remove the blades. Here I have a complete assembly. You'll have to imagine it's still on the deck.
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On the topside, there is a 1-1/4" nut welded to the pulley. To hold the shaft from spinning while you remove the blade nut, you put a 1-1/4" box-end wrench or socket on this pulley nut. Don't bother with the 1-1/16" nut that sits on top of it for now, you need that in place while you remove the blade.

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Put a 1-1/8" socket on the blade nut. In my case, this wasn't going ANYWHERE without the impact wrench. While holding your wrench on the other side, hit the blade nut with the impact wrench. Remove the nut, and now you can take off the blade, the washers, and the small cap off the spindle.

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Now you can remove the three nuts holding the spindle to the deck. I used the impact wrench on some of these, a cutoff wheel on some others. Remember that you have a carriage bolt in a square hole on the other side, and try not to let it rotate to round out that hole. You can put a screwdriver under the nut once you get it started to keep the bolt head all the way into the square hole.

Now you can remove it from the deck, and you have something that looks like this (hopefully, in your case, prettier.)
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Now you can remove the larger part of the spindle housing. I had to put a screwdriver in the gap as leverage to get it off.
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Now you're down to this:

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Now you can flip it over to get the pulley off. Note that it is not clamped into the vise, it's just sitting between the jaws, with the top of the vise providing a place to sit the assembly on its flanges. Now put the 1-1/4" wrench back on the pulley spindle, and a 1-1/16" socket or wrench on the top nut. This one should come off without need of an impact driver.

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With that nut off, you're now ready to remove the pulley and the mounting flange. This is where the sitting position in the vise came in handy, as you can tap the shaft down out of the pulley, if necessary. You can't turn it because there's a key in there.

In my case, two of them were pretty well stuck. So I put an old socket that I wasn't worried about trashing on top of the shaft (to protect the grease zerk) and then tapped it down.
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The assembly we have in the picture was the worst one. I damaged the socket beating on it, and it still wouldn't come free. Then I added penetrating oil, and eventually heated it up. Then I found that I could put the blade nut on this shaft and thread it halfway down. This left it high enough to protect the zerk while I gave it a few good hammer blows. Finally, it came out.

You'll note that I damaged the pulley doing this, as it mashed down onto the carriage bolts while I pounded on the shaft. With the pulley stuck to the shaft like it was, I can't imagine any other way I could have gotten it off without damaging it. If anyone has ideas, please share. In my case, these pulleys are rusted to the point that I didn't care. I was going to replace them anyway.
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And here you have it, completely broken down. The bearing assembly itself is a contained, non-serviceable unit. If they're bad, you need a new one.

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[Matt G.]

Got a torch? Heat the hub of the pulley to a dull red with that, and it'll pop off very easily.

[CC1650Dave]

I only have a plumbers torch, and I did use it on that stuck one. I don't even know if that thing will get something to a dull red (?) but I kept it on long enough to get it hot.

The grease zerk started to bubble out the top a little from the heat, and I didn't want sealed bearing unit to get too hot.