Rebuilding my 100

[_DX3_]

I just got my block and crank back a week ago. Am waiting to get my new governor and shaft to get things rolling. I did over file the compression ring, so am going to have to get another one ordered. I too am looking forward to getting my 128 all back together to play with.

[ACecil]

Thanks for the update pics!

[thetucks]

just a quick question...how difficult is it to tear one of these apart and rebuild it? my 12hp on my 129 is shot. im debating on rebuilding or trying to find another one. id really like to jump into the rebuild but a little scared if I can get it done. thanks. Looking great so far. thanks for the pics.

[_DX3_]

You can download the Kohler engine manual here or at Kohler engines website. The Kohler's are very easy to work on. Very basic and the instructions are easy to follow. You do need a few basic tools. A torque wrench being the most important. I do like to have a dial indicator and magnetic base, which I purchased at Harbor Freight fairly cheaply. It works fine for what measurements are needed on these engines. A spring compressor for the valve springs. I used an old GM door hinge spring compressor that you can get at any auto parts store for under $10. That is about it. You can have a machine shop check your bore and crank to see if they are in spec. I bought tools to do that myself, but I intend on doing more engines in the future is the reason I bought those. Just follow the manual to disassemble and re assemble and you should be fine. The key is just taking your time and following the steps. You do need a harmonic balancer puller to remove the flywheel too. Another item you can pick up at the auto parts store. Just stop in at a hardware store and buy grade 8 bolts to replace the cheap bolts that come in the kit. I think I needed two bolts about 2 inches longer anyway to get the puller to work on the flywheel.

[thetucks]

OK thanks. That puts my mind at ease a little. I have downloaded th manual and do have most tools needed. Ill just have to find a machine shop.

Sorry didnt mean to hijack your thread. Thanks a,lot. I look forward to your progress.

[litlmikeyl]

thetucks - No no, you're fine. A camera, preferably digital, is a nice thing to have along the way so you can document what goes where & in what order. Its also good for what you might find once you start digging thru the motor, such as scarred cyl. walls, broken/missing parts, etc. The pictures come in handy when you put things back together especially when things sit with some time in between. Get a box of sandwich zip-lock bags, a Sharpie marker and a roll of masking tape so you can put pieces in the bags and label them for later. Most importantly, and I can't stress this enough, if you don't know ask for help. If you're not sure, just say so. Everyone here is willing to help and share whatever tips & tricks they have come upon along the way.

Remember, this is supposed to be fun. Good luck!

[litlmikeyl]

Got the engine block & associated sheetmetal back from the blaster yesterday afternoon. Looks like I'm going to need a new ID plate for the flywheels shroud; it was bad before & the blasting looks to have maybe finished it off. After a good cleaning this weekend, it's off to the machine shop to take care of the rest. Hopefully while the motor is out at the shop I'll be able to get the main clutch fixed (or at least started on) and finish working on the hyd. lift. Have a good weekend everyone.

[Matt G.]

If you had the block sandblasted, you better REALLY clean it out good before reassembling it. Unless all of the insides of the block were blocked off so sand could not get in, there's probably sand in places you can't imagine.

Sandblasters and engines, transmissions, etc. do not mix.

[litlmikeyl]

I took my motor into the machine shop a few days ago and I got a call today saying the crank in my K241 had been ground before and now the main journal is .012" under nominal, so he can't re-grind it for a .010 rod. This was his first step, so I'm not out anything yet money-wise, but I'm not 100% sure what to do from here. So far, the rest of the block looks good enough to save with either a .010-over bore with an absolute max of .020-over being needed.

Looking for options from those who have gone down this road, or had machine work done, before.

He did give me a few options though; 1) grind the crank to .020 under & use an aftermarket rod sized for this - if a rod exists. A friend of his mentioned this idea to him, 2) spray-weld my crank, then grind it for .010 under and use the new .010-under rod I currently have, 3) find another good crank that has enough meat on it that it can be ground appropiately for a .010 rod.

I plan on using this tractor as it was originally intended, so it will see its use and see some long hours doing all kinds of chores. I did find an aftermarket .020-under rod on Ebay though I'm not terribly confident in its quality in regards to craftsmanship & longevity.

[CC1450]

I've read about others using that ebay rod, I believe on this forum. It was made just for your situation, I don't see any reason not to use it but I am no engine builder.