Drive Shaft Conversion - Page 6

cumminsmannow · #51 12-31-2013, 05:15 PM

ok so I am just about done making my new upgraded shaft based on your writeup and whatnot in this thread.
My question is which way is the "open end" of the collar supposed to go? the part that holds the drive barrels. In your pic it looks like the open end goes towards the center of the shaft. I was thinking it went the other way to keep the drive barrels inside the collar.
thanks for the help and I will post up some pics of my completed one when I finish it.

Sam Mac · #52 12-31-2013, 05:25 PM

This is how they come from Cub and it is how I put them together.

cumminsmannow · #53 12-31-2013, 06:02 PM

Ok thank you.

ken6x6 · #54 12-31-2013, 06:31 PM

i ran this set up from Sam for a good 6 months on my 1772 backhoe. was quick to install and almost no maintenance. i had no problems till i hit a raised slab of concrete while plowing with the bucket. we are thinking that since the diesels have rubber motor mounts the engine gave with the sudden stop, and popped the shaft out of the barrels. wound up destroying the one end of the shaft.

Sam, being the stand up guy he is hooked me up with a CV style drive shaft. it installed easy enough. so far so good. just have to grease this shaft.

i would recommend using the barrel style shaft for sold mounted engines. for the rubber mounts go CV.

cumminsmannow · #55 01-04-2014, 11:58 AM

well I might just have to solid mount the motor then in this process too.
It's not like it shakes at all.

Sam Mac · #56 01-04-2014, 12:04 PM

I think in Ken's case the extra weight of the back hoe and loader may have also caused some flexing of the frame. I'd suggest that you consider a brace kit from Xtreme to help stiffen it up.

cumminsmannow · #57 01-07-2014, 10:46 AM

I've seen those kits and may add something to it before this summer to help stiffen up the chassis in back where there seems to be problems breaking off the ears of the trans.

Tony h · #58 01-07-2014, 11:38 AM

You all seem to have bigger machines. As a Newbie to Cubs I saw the shaft on my 782 and thought ' gee, it would be nice to come up with a more robust Coupler and thicker shaft. Is the front and rear adapter parts you are talking about bolt-ons for the KT17 engine and the Steel rear of my 782?
I haven't had the need to really eyeball how this shaft attaches.. I just know teh Rag joints seem scary even though they were OK for a '39 plymouth I worked on.

andyw · #59 01-30-2014, 07:59 AM

This retrofit kit is the bees knees. Installation is a dream compared to removing the rag joint shaft. and a just much simpler design. I am looking forward to getting this monster back out. I have been doing alot of updating to it over the past few months, you guys have been an inspiration to me. lol

FYI, I know sam said to use a lathe to cut the flange off one end but a cut off wheel right up against the flange worked just as good (especialy for someone without the luxury of having a laste

), a little grinding and hammered out the piece with a socket and I was left with the flange ready for repositioning.

I will have pictures of everything when Im done with it all, my gear reduction starter is due to be in tomarrow, and that is the last piece of my puzzle.

Sam Mac · #60 01-30-2014, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony h

You all seem to have bigger machines. As a Newbie to Cubs I saw the shaft on my 782 and thought ' gee, it would be nice to come up with a more robust Coupler and thicker shaft. Is the front and rear adapter parts you are talking about bolt-ons for the KT17 engine and the Steel rear of my 782?
I haven't had the need to really eyeball how this shaft attaches.. I just know teh Rag joints seem scary even though they were OK for a '39 plymouth I worked on.

Tony

The 2000 series will bolt to your engine, they use the same bolt pattern and I have an adapter for the hydro pump the fan may be an issue. If you can post a pic of your fan I will see what I can cook up for you.