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#51
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Ball bushing? Is that at the center of the drive bracket? Hadn't planned to replace that. I guess it keeps the drive shaft centered? Need to look at that. Thanks for the heads up.
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#52
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The replacement ball bushing costs more than a new drive flange? $24 vs. $22 at CCspecialties...It doesn't spin, does it? It's a bronze bushing that the drive shaft spins in. Seems like a low wear item? Or not?
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#53
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Not sure if it spins as fast as the drive shaft, or spins at all,but when they are worn, you will have some good vibrations.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#54
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The bushings on this tractor look good. This 1450 runs very smooth, hardly an vibration at all, compared to my 1650. I might have to check the 1650 to see if those are worn. I can't remember looking at them on that tractor when I went through it earlier this year. And it shakes a lot. Ummm...
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#55
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Not knocking the 16 hp engine as I know it is a 'hoss, but in some ways, I'm looking forward to using my 1650 with the 14 hp engine I have for it - just to keep the vibration down and making use of the tractor more comfortable. I've got a 16 hp engine in the wings, but it needs a rebuild first. Good luck, Bill
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IH Cub Cadet 109 IH Cub Cadet 126 (2) IH Cub Cadet 149 IH Cub Cadet 1650 MTD Cub Cadet LTX1042 |
#56
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leeave96--sounds like we are running in parallel on these tractors. I installed new iso mounts and snubbers (with the cradle mod), new flex discs, and re-installed the engine in my 1450 last night. Spent some time degreasing the hydro pump and rear end and taking care of some rust/paint loss under the battery box due to previously leaking battery. Now that that is all cleaned up, primed and re-painted, I think I'll tweak the trunnion slot a little to remove those two little grooves. considering welding on a couple pieces of key stock above and below the existing slot sides. Don't want to pull the pump or disassemble the trunnion assembly and am afraid that fill welding the little divots directly might somehow weld the trunnion spring caps in place. We'll see. Pics to follow.
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#57
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Here's my solution to the worn trunnion. I saw where others have done something similar. OK, I know my welds are crap. I used a a cheap Harbor Freight wire feed welder. Not happy with the results, so I just bought a Hobart 140 Handler Mig welder, but have not had a chance to use it yet. Next tractor.
Anyway, you can see from the pics, I clamped two pieces of 3/16 keystock to the trunnion slot, flush with the outside edge. a couple spot welds and I think it's done. I put a wet paper towel on the trunnion arm to keep the temps down, but I don't think with this approach there is any risk of overheating the seal at the hydro pump. There is little stress on these pieces, so you don't need a lot of weld area. The two pieces of keystock are positioned so that they effectively prevent the disk caps from hanging up in the trunnion slot divots. I've been struggling with the easiest way to fix the worn trunnion slots--and have ignored the problem on a couple previous tractors for fear of damaging things further or, worse, disabling the whole linkage. I bought a replacement slot with thoughts of cutting the slot off and welding a new one on, but chickened out due to my poor welding skills. (I'm a skilled furniture maker, but my metal working skills are still developing) I think this approach is easy enough that I'll go back to my 149 and 1650 and do the same. I've got a 123 up next that will probably also need it, too. Nearly finished reassembly of the 1450 here. Side panels and restart later today.
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#58
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Last post for the 1450 rehab. In the process of putting the mule drive back on for the 44 inch deck (all cleaned up, repainted, etc), and it worked great.
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#59
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Looks good!
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#60
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The 1450 is looking great!
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
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