Dave's 1650 Project

[CC1650Dave]

Originally Posted by Wild Bill

Dave: Did you use a new points push rod? They have been known to get worn.....

I was just thinking about that the other day when I was disassembling the K321 I have on my bench while looking for answers. I pulled that pin out and tried to remember how it went on the K341. I'm pretty sure I didn't get a new one with the kit, and I looked it over and it looked OK so I reinstalled it. It could be a possibility, so I'll check it out.

Have you tried using a timing light, once you have it as close as you can using the 'static timing method'?

No, no timing light yet. Another thing I think I have to exhaust before I pull the engine again.

Thanks for the pointers Bill!

[ndanger]

In case anyone is wondering what happened to the promised PDF of this thread, I have something similar to a finished version of it, but it won't open on my iPad, which is part of the reason that I wanted to do it (to have it as a ready reference in the shop). So, as soon as I figure out what the deal is with that, I'll post the document. I hadn't forgotten or quit, just ran into a weird problem. Computers, you know.

[nutzboutoldies]

Thanks for the great detail on this rebuild. I have been wondering what that left over washer on my bench was for. Now I know. I didn't put the large washer under the flywheel nut. The engine is still on the bench so I'll have to take care of that to day beefore I go any further.

[Flatbedford]

I just read all 573 posts on this thread over the last three days. The pictures and descriptions are awesome! What really has me concerned is that Dave has not posted on this thread since 11/15/11. Have you made any progress in the last 10 weeks? Did you give up? You were doing so well. I hope you update soon.

[CC1650Dave]

I promise I'll get back on this soon guys. There's another complimentary thread, my 1450 subproject, that is part of this whole program.

I got burned out on the timing issue and the weather turned, and since my garage isn't heated, I took time off. But I'm not a quitter, I'll see this project to the end. Once I get started again, the thread will be busy.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

I promise I'll get back on this soon guys. There's another complimentary thread, my 1450 subproject, that is part of this whole program.

I got burned out on the timing issue and the weather turned, and since my garage isn't heated, I took time off. But I'm not a quitter, I'll see this project to the end. Once I get started again, the thread will be busy.

We understand we don't like to be cold either unless we're removing snow!

[ndanger]

Originally Posted by ndanger

In case anyone is wondering what happened to the promised PDF of this thread, I have something similar to a finished version of it, but it won't open on my iPad, which is part of the reason that I wanted to do it (to have it as a ready reference in the shop). So, as soon as I figure out what the deal is with that, I'll post the document. I hadn't forgotten or quit, just ran into a weird problem. Computers, you know.

Another update ... for those who are interested, looks like the PDF of this thread is fixed now. I'll update it with the last few postings and get it out.

[Mike1450]

Nice Thread! I read through the whole thing the last two nights.

You can determine if you are a tooth off on your timing buy bring the piston up to TDC and both valves closed. If you then wiggled the crank back and forth one valve should start to open at a time. The amount of turning in either direction should be equal to get a valve to open. If this is the case then your cam and crank should be in time.

We always used this method at the small engine rebuild shop I worked at in my younger years. We would see many engines where timing mark on either crank or cam were missing from ware.

[Mike1450]

[QUOTE=Mike1450;114819]Nice Thread! I read through the whole thing the last two nights.

You can determine if you are a tooth off on your timing buy bring the piston up to TDC and both valves closed. If you then wiggled the crank back and forth one valve should start to open at a time. The amount of turning in either direction should be equal to get a valve to open. If this is the case then your cam and crank should be in time.

We always used this method at the small engine rebuild shop I worked at in my younger years. We would see many engines where timing mark on either crank or cam were missing from ware.

I also noticed this statement in a earlier posting "c) Just a note for reminder, in case it strikes anyone as problematic: When I initially put the points @ .020, they break at TDC, when the "T" is in the sight hole. I have to bring them all the way out to around .040 to get them to break at the "S." "

If your are out at 0.040 with your points this seems to be very excessive. I would expect a normal range to be 0.015 - 0.025. The 0.040 may also indicate you are off by a tooth.

[ACecil]

It's all good, Dave. We'll be here, when you get started again.