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#552
11-13-2011, 03:54 PM
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A'right boys, here's the rundown on today's troubleshooting:
1) Re-checked the spark plug. It's the Autolite 216, gap is at .025. Cranked the engine with the plug out and saw a good blue spark. Reinstalled the plug. Tried to start, same problem. 2) Went to Napa and purchased a new set of points and condenser. Reason? The condenser was the one that was on the tractor when I got it, I have no idea of its condition. The points were the ones that came with the rebuild kit, and they just seemed flimsy to me. So I wanted to eliminate them as a variable. a) Tried the new condenser first, without changing the points. Tried to start, same problem. b) Swapped in the new points, re-did the static timing. Tried to start, same problem. c) Just a note for reminder, in case it strikes anyone as problematic: When I initially put the points @ .020, they break at TDC, when the "T" is in the sight hole. I have to bring them all the way out to around .040 to get them to break at the "S." 3) Swapped out my coil and spark plug wire with the ones from the K321. I noted that my coil, when inverted, had an oily liquid dripping out where the plug wire goes in. The plug wire itself was kind of wet / oily here. That doesn't seem like it could be a good thing. So I'm thinking maybe this is the problem. K321's coil and spark plug wire in place. Tried to start, same problem. 4) Now, moving away from the more obvious components, I went to a suggestion Duke gave me and ran a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. This will let me know if there's a problem somewhere between the key switch to the voltage regulator to the coil. Tried to start, and it did start easier. Now, this could be because I had the tractor running for a little while on one of these previous hard starts, so it could just be starting easier because it's warm. But it did seem better. I'm going to let it cool down while I watch some football, and try it again later. Fingers crossed...maybe we've narrowed down the problem! 
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#553
11-13-2011, 05:25 PM
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 Dave sure hope that's the problem and you got it fixed.
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102-P Narrow tires no creeper--42inch deck and IH blade. 102-D Wide tires,creeper,headlights--42inch deck and CW36 snow thrower. 1997-2086 Super with 3 point hitch and all the bells and whistles. 1961-PTE-"O", needs lots of work. 2072-Repowered with a ch18, Woods tractor. 149 with my Dad. 44" deck and QA36A. #9-70 with weights and sleeve hitch. #10-149 with a 38inch deck. 2015 Kubota BX 2670.
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#554
11-13-2011, 07:29 PM
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Dave,
Thanks for the update on the hard starting engine. You were busy! I will be watching for the final fix. Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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#555
11-13-2011, 07:34 PM
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Nah, I went out and tried it again 3.5 hours later, and it's still a really hard starting engine.
So we're getting closer to the possibility that the impossible happened, that the cam and crank are off by a tooth. As much as I paid attention to that, all of the symptoms sure seem to point to it. I have the K321 sitting on the bench waiting for takedown / rebuild. I think I'll open it up and try putting it off by a tooth on purpose, and then see if it's possible to get the points to open on the "S." That'd answer the question I posed in this thread...
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#556
11-13-2011, 07:38 PM
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Question: Once I actually get it started, it actually runs pretty smooth, and it'll accelerate nicely from mid-throttle to wide open. It vibrates quite a bit at idle and mid-range, but smooths out nicely at wide open.
Could that be the case if your cam and crank were off by a tooth? It seems like it wouldn't be smooth at any throttle level (?)
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#557
11-13-2011, 07:47 PM
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Dave,
Really wish I could help on the off by one tooth idea. I guess I would be surprised that it would run good after starting? I am not going to speculate on this. I am not a expert in hard starting. Question? Can you take off the cam cover and see the timing marks? I though I looked at mine thru there? But maybe I dreamed it? Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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#558
11-13-2011, 08:00 PM
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I dunno Chris - it doesn't seem like I'd be able to. I was thinking maybe I could get one of those little inspection cameras in there thru the cam cover or fuel pump hole - if I had one...
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#560
11-13-2011, 08:32 PM
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Really? The 1650's owners manual shows .025", and so far I can't find any IH or Kohler source that says .035". You don't think that'd make the difference do you? I was thinking the same on getting a camera on loaner...
Chris, I just pulled the cam cover off the K321 that's out on the bench, and no, there's no way to see where the gear matches up to the crank.
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