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  #41  
Old 09-30-2017, 06:16 PM
twisties twisties is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dart1917 View Post
The idler ratchet just lets you push the idler back and hold it there to release tension on the belt when removing or installing the deck. It won't affect the operation if it's not there.

You said the cradle bolts are all there and tight but are the bolts holding the engine to the cradle all there? Can't tell from your pics.
I can see four bolts holding the engine to cradle. All are secure. Pulled deck off today and removed deck belt. All the pulleys spin freely and keep rotating when given a spin. No play or anything like that that I can tell.

I guess my next step is to review the engine setup regarding fuel and governors.
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  #42  
Old 10-02-2017, 09:31 AM
twisties twisties is offline
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Ok, here is a much longer video. It appears to be fine the first time PTO is engaged. Once disengaged then reengaged its fine for a few seconds the starts bucking.

https://youtu.be/ozIimS55kuA
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  #43  
Old 10-02-2017, 10:16 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisties View Post
Ok, here is a much longer video. It appears to be fine the first time PTO is engaged. Once disengaged then reengaged its fine for a few seconds the starts bucking.

https://youtu.be/ozIimS55kuA

Thanks for the longer video.

So.... have you done anything to try and fix this? Or did you just want to get us a longer vid to see if we still thought it has the same issues or a different one???

I certain it's an engine issue. Do the things I suggested in post #37. If that doesn't fix it, do a complete fuel system clean and rebuild. I still think it's getting fuel starved, but doing the tune up stuff is good for it too.
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  #44  
Old 10-02-2017, 12:10 PM
twisties twisties is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Thanks for the longer video.

So.... have you done anything to try and fix this? Or did you just want to get us a longer vid to see if we still thought it has the same issues or a different one???

I certain it's an engine issue. Do the things I suggested in post #37. If that doesn't fix it, do a complete fuel system clean and rebuild. I still think it's getting fuel starved, but doing the tune up stuff is good for it too.
Working on the fuel system today. Just thought I'd try to post a longer video to provide a better look.
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  #45  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:27 PM
twisties twisties is offline
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OK, checked and reset governor, was a little off but not much, I believe the spring was in the fifth hole down from the shaft. Checked timing and gap at points was .020 when the S scribe was aligned with indicator (actually couldn't see the S even after cleaning the flywheel, but there was a clear straight scribe that opened the points right when it was aligned with the indicator as well as some paint marks on the teeth, assumed that was it). Removed fuel line at carburetor, steady flow through tank and filter. Checked main and idle needles, they were where they should be. Still having the same problem.

In my initial post I mentioned that the PO had done a lot of mechanical work. To elaborate, he had the engine completely rebuilt including the carburetor, ignition, etc. I believe he said it had 3-4 hours on it when I purchased it. Claimed to have cut his three acre lot several times with no issues. I've maybe put one more hour on puttering around with this thing.

When looking at the choke and carb butterflys they appeared to be new, outside and what I could see of the inside of the carb were clean as a whistle. All the ignition components are new, points, plug, coil, wire, etc. Gap on plug was .035 which I believe is correct. New fuel hoses and fittings.

About the only thing that seemed like it might be out of place was an inline disc type fuel filter. As I mentioned I got a steady stream out of it but the ID on the filter nipples is considerably smaller than the ID of the hose. Could that be a restriction?

It appears there may be better methods to check the timing than a feeler gauge but there were several methods listed in the Kohler service manual and I honestly wasn't sure which one to use. Recommendations welcome!

Thanks for all the feedback and comments. I'm a NOOB at these and just trying to learn and get this thing running the way it should be.
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  #46  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:45 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Might be the coil is bad, there is a test method in the tech section.
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  #47  
Old 10-02-2017, 09:48 PM
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Green stripe wide frame Green stripe wide frame is offline
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I'd say it's starving for fuel, because it only does it under load. Then it can be recovered once load is removed. I thought timing but that would be a predictable issue.
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  #48  
Old 10-02-2017, 10:07 PM
Bamafan Bamafan is offline
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I tend to agree with J Mack and some of the other guys. I'm by far no expert on this subject, but with all you have done with no results. I to think it is a fuel issue.
Keep us posted as to your progress on this problem. It is very interesting.
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  #49  
Old 10-02-2017, 11:52 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by twisties View Post
Checked timing and gap at points was .020 when the S scribe was aligned with indicator (actually couldn't see the S even after cleaning the flywheel, but there was a clear straight scribe that opened the points right when it was aligned with the indicator as well as some paint marks on the teeth, assumed that was it).
Wait...... so the point gap was .020" when the "S" was in the window? If so, that is not right. The point contact should just break when the "S" at the mark. If this is correct, you need to readjust the points.

Do it like this:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461


That may be the issue....
Set it first and go from there. I could take the engine a while to really fall on it's face with timing issues, and it definitely would change as engine temp changes. Still think it sounds like it has a fuel starvation issue.
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  #50  
Old 10-03-2017, 07:25 AM
twisties twisties is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Wait...... so the point gap was .020" when the "S" was in the window? If so, that is not right. The point contact should just break when the "S" at the mark. If this is correct, you need to readjust the points.

Do it like this:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461


That may be the issue....
Set it first and go from there. I could take the engine a while to really fall on it's face with timing issues, and it definitely would change as engine temp changes. Still think it sounds like it has a fuel starvation issue.
I mis stated that. They started to break open when the S was in the window, max gap was .020 after more rotation.
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