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  #41  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:02 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Do you have the eccentric locking collar on the bearing removed?
(it is the one with the set screw in it, if it is that style of bearing)
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  #42  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:10 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Yes George. He got it off.
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  #43  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Yes George. He got it off.
ok the a little emery cloth to polish the burs/rust off might help.
Ya they are hard to get off, usually a 3 jaw behind the bearing, not flange helps.
Too many of those things on old farm equipment. Ha,LOL!
A cutoff wheel destroying the outer race will free it and the balls.
Then cutting the inner race most of the way through and hitting it with a chisel
will split it is the way to go, or slicing it with a torch if avail as you said earlier.
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  #44  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:24 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I agree George.


Like I said, the OP is only missing experience.
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  #45  
Old 05-12-2017, 09:39 AM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
ok the a little emery cloth to polish the burs/rust off might help.
Ya they are hard to get off, usually a 3 jaw behind the bearing, not flange helps.
Too many of those things on old farm equipment. Ha,LOL!
A cutoff wheel destroying the outer race will free it and the balls.
Then cutting the inner race most of the way through and hitting it with a chisel
will split it is the way to go, or slicing it with a torch if avail as you said earlier.
Sounds like you have worked on a few Deere combines. Spent 2 hours more than once trying to get them apart. Dremel tool with heavy cut off wheel is your friend.
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  #46  
Old 05-12-2017, 11:05 AM
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nra1ifer nra1ifer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
ok the a little emery cloth to polish the burs/rust off might help.
Ya they are hard to get off, usually a 3 jaw behind the bearing, not flange helps.
Too many of those things on old farm equipment. Ha,LOL!
A cutoff wheel destroying the outer race will free it and the balls.
Then cutting the inner race most of the way through and hitting it with a chisel
will split it is the way to go, or slicing it with a torch if avail as you said earlier.
That is what I had to do to at least a couple of bearing in my #1 tiller when I took it apart.
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  #47  
Old 05-13-2017, 12:14 AM
jrichards jrichards is offline
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Looks like cutting them off is the way to go. I have both a grinder with a cut off wheel as well as a dremel. Either I think will get the job done.

Are these standard bearings or will I need to make a special purchase online to replace them?
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  #48  
Old 05-13-2017, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrichards View Post
Looks like cutting them off is the way to go. I have both a grinder with a cut off wheel as well as a dremel. Either I think will get the job done.

Are these standard bearings or will I need to make a special purchase online to replace them?

You can try the grinder with a cut off, but if the bearing is still recessed, it likely won't reach it. The Dremel will take forever, but will work. Try the chisel.

I already said the bearings were a standard bearing in post #31:

Quote:
They are a very common flange bearing anyway. Even if you didn't have the number.
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  #49  
Old 05-13-2017, 06:30 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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You can get cheap ones at most any farm fleet type store. But be advised, there are 2 styles, maybe more. Take one of yours along to match up. You need the ones w/the extended inner race.
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  #50  
Old 05-14-2017, 12:14 AM
jrichards jrichards is offline
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Got the bearings off! Used a grinder with a cut off wheel to cut deep enough to use a chisel to do the rest of the work...though I don't think I will be able to bring them into a local tractor supply store as they are pretty unrecognizable now :-).

Now on to taking the tines off. Trying to decide if I should take each blade off the tines separately or try to get the each set of 4 off still connected to the plate

IMG_8186.jpg

IMG_8187.jpg

IMG_8188.jpg
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