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  #41  
Old 02-25-2017, 09:07 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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I haven't checked this thread closely for a while. I must say you are REALLY going through this thing. Should be solid when you are done. Pic of the grandbaby is nice!
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  #42  
Old 02-26-2017, 08:33 PM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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Well, third coat of paint on all the engine parts today. Was a much better day for painting. 54 degrees, so not near as many bugs out. Also I made a "part hanger clothes line". This kept the crazy angles of the spray gun to a minimum. Also could see how much paint was applied. I am really happy with all the parts I've painted so far. I did use a rattle can inside my building to paint the bearing plate.
(After taping up the hole in the center and new bearing) I know aluminum is harder to paint, but that tractor supply paint is horrible, no coverage and runs terrible. I figured since only a small portion of it shows, wouldn't be such a big deal. Anyway I'll keep the pics coming as soon as the crank is finished and I start rebuilding.
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  #43  
Old 02-27-2017, 11:11 PM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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Got the block back. Put the balance gear in, cam is in , crank is in one side and timing marks lined up. Y'all didn't think I'd get thru this without questions, did you? The manual says "plain washer" between brass governor bushing and block. Problem is , I didn't take it apart and I have a lot of plain washers. Seems to me this has to seal some kinda way to prevent oil leak? And the manual says use plastiguage on rod caps. Is this necessary even though I had crank turned and new undersized rod? ALL help is appreciated. Gonna tape everything up good and paint the block before I go much further. Oh it also says something about fuel line and wires on some engines before installing bearing plate. I don't think it pertains to mine but If I'm wrong jump in there
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  #44  
Old 02-27-2017, 11:11 PM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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Sorry not balance gear, governor gear
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  #45  
Old 02-28-2017, 09:34 PM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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Ok feel free to jump in with answers. Figured out the governor bushing, sealed with a rubber grommet/bushing. I'm gonna go ahead and use plastiguage. But still unsure what wire and fuel line the manual is talking about behind the bearing plate. Shot the block with first coat of paint this evening. One more Tommorrow and hopefully have a rebuilt engine by Sunday. (Ordered carb rebuild kit,gotta stop looking lol)
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  #46  
Old 03-01-2017, 01:51 PM
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snoel snoel is offline
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Yes! Cheap insurance. Many years ago, I took over the shop at an IH dealer. Having a block just back from the machine shop, the mechanic said, " I never use it, It's just been ground and fitted at the machine shop." (a highly reputed shop). I said, "you will do it this time". (the mechanic had 17 years in that shop). He very much resented this young upstart telling him his business. But he did it. One journal on a 100 HP tractor engine was several thousands out of limits!
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  #47  
Old 03-01-2017, 09:03 PM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna pick up some plastiguage Tommorrow. Also picking up another bearing plate gasket. I installed the bearing plate and the crank end play was 3 in one spot but less in most. When I turned the crank by hand it had a knock already lol. Not smooth. So took the bearing plate back off. Try again Tommorrow with another gasket. I had all three gasket shims and the gasket on when end play was 3. Hoping to get 10 or 11. I figure that's busting the middle of spec.
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  #48  
Old 03-03-2017, 09:57 AM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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Rod to crank clearance was dead in the middle of spec. The crank end play gave me a fit though. Didn't have a puller for the bearing plate. Had to pull it back off 5 or 6 times, using wood block and pecking with hammer. the bearing stayed in the bearing plate one time like it should have. One time the other bearing came out of the block on the pto side. One time the bearing plate came off but bearing stayed on crank. When this happened I should have pulled it off the crank and reinserted it into the bearing plate, reason being I could never get enough end play. Once I figured out to take the bearing and reinsert into bearing plate BEFORE reinstalling the bearing plate, then I had too much endplay. So needless to say, the moral of the story is, get the right tools, and life will be simpler. Hope some of this made sense
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  #49  
Old 03-03-2017, 11:34 AM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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J-mech, do you think I hurt anything by pecking the bearing plate on and off so much? You seem to be the engine guru
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  #50  
Old 03-04-2017, 10:31 PM
tinkerman tinkerman is offline
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Well the engine is almost there, just a few odds and ends left. Fuel line breather, front pto. Speaking of the pto, would it be a good idea to take it apart and clean it or no? Still a week or so out on having the body parts painted. My neighbor is building a 68 chevy short bed factory 4x4 that he's trying to finish. May have to go help lol. I may read up and figure out how to bench test the engine. Anxious to hear it run.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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