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#41
09-07-2016, 12:06 PM
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Yeah, it's like 2 steps forward 3 steps back. The carb, which was supposedly rebuilt in the last month or so, dumped a ton of fuel overnight on my shop floor. Off it comes, then in the dip tank, awaiting rebuild kit. Guess I'll adjust valves whole the carb is off, and install bushing in the throttle shaft.
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#43
09-10-2016, 12:36 PM
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It's the weekend!
Machinist is done with the shoulder bolt for the pivot, but I'll pick it up on Monday. Today's tasks-carburetor rebuild/throttle shaft bushing. Trans fluid and filter, and valve adjustment on the 301AQS. Some preliminary pics. I used a bushing from hardware store and turned down the outer flange (it was 1/16" too large in diameter) until it fit somewhat snug, then applied some metal epoxy to the bushing and installed it with throttle shaft in place to align the bushing. Letting it cure then removing excess on the top of the bushing so that throttle shaft falls into bore entirely. Homemade gasket on this trans. It was very sloppily made. Found gray sludge on the inside of the case, kinda like a gel. I assume this is from the case condensation not being able to go anywhere. Cleaned out filter on top of case as well it was plugged up entirely. More to come later this afternoon!
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#46
09-10-2016, 06:40 PM
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Well it was a long afternoon. Adjusted valves, they were pretty close to being spot on, though. Forgot that I'd have to make new gaskets for the breather cover too, so that took a minute, and when I went to adjust the points I found that they were maxed out as far as the timing gap is concerned, so I'm wondering if I need a new pushrod....
Right now they are gapped at .016, and it looks like in order for it to be in time it should be gapped greater than that, probably close to the general .020 ballpark method. That timing mark is a real pain to see isn't it? You have to make sure you are a sighting perpendicular to the flywheel through the hole which is half covered by the frame rail. Tips here, anyone? Carb looks pretty now, and it runs well. Idle is more reliable after the bushing install. Adjusted high and low idle, fixed the wacky governor linkage that the PO had messed with. It will all change once the engine is properly timed, though.
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#47
09-10-2016, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
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#48
09-10-2016, 07:22 PM
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Is it common for the pushrod to need replaced in order to get the timing back into spec? It seems like an item that would take forever to wear.....
(edit - I got curious so I spent some time googling the answer, which is that it is most likely cam lobe wear, probably due to poor maintenance. In the meantime, I'll measure the pushrod and if it isn't worn then I'll assume it is cam wear and I'll just have a longer pushrod made until the engine can be torn down ) Also, another thing that I noticed is that it is easy to mis-read the oil level on this engine. The bayonet can slide down past the cap and effectively show a higher oil reading than I actually have. Going to tack weld the cap in place so I can't make that mistake again.
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#50
09-10-2016, 09:42 PM
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One thing that I really enjoy, but that is hard to get in the mindset of, is working without an axe over my head for time. I try to get myself into the mindset of being patient and taking my time so that I can produce some really great work. When I tinker on the older Cubs it is refreshing because they are simple machines and simple designs.
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