ISO mounts questions

[mortten]

I went that route when I first got the tractor. I used the best original top mounts on the bottom and used the sway bar mounts on the top. The older mounts didn't last long. The ones I got from CC Specialties are a bit softer than the sway bar mounts. They require using the metal inserts. I don't know if you can get the inserts in the sway bar mounts. I tightened them down until I had one tread showing. I get almost no vibration but only have about an hour on them. I also replaced the rag joints, the swivels on the back and front, and the drive shaft with all new spiral pins. Put a new fan on also.

[rdeyoe]

Yeah mortten. I saved all the old ones I took off, just in case, and went back through them when I saw this. There may be one decent one in there. The bottom ones are all swollen and soft and the others are cut / crushed from being run long term with missing pan bolts. Even if i could use the old ones on the bottoms, they wouldn't last long.

Those CC Specialties mounts, they take the metal inserts? I have the inserts, so that's not a problem. I'm going to slap the sway bar mounts in for a try because they're reasonable and locally available. You think the CC mounts are softer? Does anyone know the durometer (softness) of them? And do they hold up? That may be the route I'll have to take. The ones i put in were a 40 durometer and I really liked the way they felt, they're just a bit too soft and can't hold up under the stress. I figure anywhere between 40 and 70 would be a good range. I've also done all the driveshaft work you have. Two rag joints on the hydro end...a single one left too much stretch...a single one on the front end. Didn't have to move any spirol pins that way.

[johncub7172]

Originally Posted by rdeyoe

The one in the front right wasn't so much squished as "falling into the hole" some. The holes in the cradle were kind of swallowing some of the iso mount. I put some large washers between the mount and the iso mount to distribute the weight a bit better and it worked really well, for a while. I'm thinking the weight of the motor is just too much for these soft mounts. Think I'll give the Moog k5252 sway bar mounts a shot next.

Sorry if you mentioned earlier in your thread, whether or not your engine frame rails; the large holes: were they wallowed out? Mine were rather in bad condition, as was the flywheel cover where the iso mount bolts were pushing through the tin. I can't say from experience that I seen the lower mount push up through the engine cradle.

I'm sure OCC has a "after market" car bushing part number for a certain place of purchase. However, I have read here that solid steel mounts work really good too. As long as the cradle holes are nice and circular, then you have options. I went with original equipment, as recommended by OCC member Myron Bounds.

[Jeff in Pa]

If you decide to go with solid mounts, I make them.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

Wide frame solid motor mounts with washers, Grade 8 flanged bolts and nylock nuts.

$43 shipped for set of four.

[rdeyoe]

Johncub; yes, the rail holes were pretty wallowed out...elongated and oval. I welded those and it looked like the original holes are supposed to be about 7/8". The ebay bushings i got I think had a 3/4" shoulder and a 1-1/4" OD. Haven't looked back in the thread, but i believe i wrote the measurements somewhere. I got them because people were complaining about hard rubber bushings and these were soft. I think i'll try the moogs or the CC Specialties...somewhere between my soft bushings and solid mounts.

JeffInPA; if the moogs or CC ones don't work out, i'll definately be getting solids from you. I've looked over various parts you make and they all look like high quality stuff...very nice. I really don't want to go solid (yet). I loved the way this thing felt with the iso mounts and this isn't going to be a puller (except maybe my Brinley plow). I want to experiment with mounting....maybe come up with something completely different along the way...

[bkw3614]

I re-did the mounts in my 1250 Nightmare, using the current style genuine Cub Cadet motor mount. I have been well satisfied with the results.

One of the things that you need to consider when using these mounts is that the torque specification of 100 inch-pounds is a bit tight and will crush the mount. Some say that using the standard length bolt recommended along with a lock nut showing about one and half to two threads is the correct torque. I found neither to be correct. What I did find is that the correct tension is found after the mounts 'wear in' for awhile and the the mounts are a bit broken into the weight of the engine. Somewhere in the middle worked the best for me, after tightening and loosening several times to find what seems to be the best for my tractor. It is a process of adjustment, but well worth the exercise, IMHO.

I know the Cub Cadet mounts are expensive. However, it seems to me that using the intended part for the purpose is far more preferable than re-purposing a part from another application and expecting favorable results.

[mortten]

I did a finger squeeze test on the Moog bushings and the ones from CCS. Couldn't get much compression from the Moogs. I could somewhat compress the CC ones. I have purchased 2 driveshafts and a gear drive shaft coupler from Jeff. Good stuff.

[rdeyoe]

bkw; yeah, i've seen the OEM sets too. But $80 a set?...for some rubber bushings? Seems a bit extreme. That's almost a quarter of what i gave for the whole tractor. If it comes down to that, i'll go with them...but for now it seems there are options.

[johncub7172]

Originally Posted by rdeyoe

bkw; yeah, i've seen the OEM sets too. But $80 a set?...for some rubber bushings? Seems a bit extreme. That's almost a quarter of what i gave for the whole tractor. If it comes down to that, i'll go with them...but for now it seems there are options.

Well, ( imho ) it's imperative not to buy the aftermarket parts from your local automotive place of purchase. My reason is because of shipping charges, as well as we all know, unless you are putting together an order of multiple parts.

On the topic of aftermarket replacements, I found that these are ( in my opinion ) considerably shorter than the original factory mounts, and the same holds true for the new factory mounts, if I recall correctly. I shimmed my aftermarket mounts between the bushing, and bottom of the aftermarket mount. I feel and have read that aftermarket mounts can and will work for your budget and tractor needs. I'm excited you are choosing to fix up such an awesome, well built garden tractor such as the IH Cub Cadet Quiet Line.

Take care.

[rdeyoe]

johncub; I'm thinking i'm going to try the CC Specialties mounts first...if those don't work, then go factory. It's worth at least one more try before the big jump. I've looked over a thread over at MTF from a guy (1450 rebuild thread) who did a very detailed restore on a 1450, and i looked like he bought it with the aftermarket mounts in it. He seemed satisfied with them, but did eventually go to the cub OEM mounts. I don't know why, he never seems to mention a reason....maybe just to get the restore back to factory as possible.

Even with the bad rep the iso mounts get, i think IH was on the right track. Properly working and adjusted, they definately smooth out the vibes. I see a lot of people wondering why not solid mounted engines, like the older ones were. I'm thinking that the 14hp and 16hp motors are just heavy bangers and solidly mounting those things would start cracking blocks. I love the looks and build of the QLs. Such a capable machine, and it really is pretty quiet. I wish they would have run the rubber mounting all the way down the rails instead of just little bumpers. Maybe distributing out the weight and vibes would've helped. But then again, they were in there for years as they were, so there's that...