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  #41  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:09 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Last time I tried to do a compression test (on a 108) I got about 50lbs, despite the compression release. I've read on here (but never tried it myself) that you can possibly get a more accurate reading by rotating the engine backwards.

Will the S/G rotate backwards if you reverse the polarity on it? Anybody know? You'd have to isolate it from the electrical system.
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  #42  
Old 05-15-2015, 01:56 PM
Frank in Foresthill Frank in Foresthill is offline
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sgt,
Went back a reread all posts.
I think a blown head gasket you would hear.
Over the years i have had to go back and tighten point adjustment screws.
I must ask. Did you use the correct timing mark on the flywheel?
That has bit me in the butt up on occasion.
Give the PO a call and just ask his thoughts.
FiF
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  #43  
Old 05-19-2015, 01:55 AM
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sgt.porter sgt.porter is offline
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Trying to balance honey do lists, health problems, and another cub isn't as easy as I thought it would be, but had a little time to poke around with it tonight.
Went out and double checked everything I had already checked, carb, ignition system, etc... Turned the key, and it actually started. Let it idle a few minutes, sounded ok. Throttled up a little, put it in forward, it tried to die. At about 3/4 throttle, there was a loud knock in the engine. Went ahead and drove it the 50ft or so I couldn't make it to the barn the first time, and shut it down.

Found this wire while tearing her down. Not sure what it does, but I'm sure it’s not doing it.


Before removing the head, I checked torque on head bolts. They were all fine, about 30lbs.
I noticed when I loosened the head bolts, the head wiggled as soon as I turned the last one. I assumed the seal would be tighter and I would have to pry a little to pop the head loose. Don't know if that is normal.
Well here's the head:


And the block (Yeah, I swirled the oil with my finger):


Best pic I could get of the intake valve:


And the exhaust valve:


Then there's this... I noticed the other week, before I checked valve stem clearance, that there was a little oil on the block below the breather cover, but there was very little inside. Today there was a lot, and when I took the breather off, there was quite a pool, and you might be able to tell from the pic, but there seems to be a lot of metal flake in it... I've got a feeling this is my biggest concern at the moment, though I've been wrong before.


Thoughts, suggestions, guidance and criticism are greatly appreciated.
(I put the pics in my album and used IMG codes, but they weren't showing up, so included url to each pic.
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  #44  
Old 05-19-2015, 08:26 AM
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Take from the first post of this thread...

"The guy is a recently retired International dealer, had rebuilt and over-bored the engine himself. It supposedly had about an hour of run time since rebuild."

I'm speechless looking at your pictures...The PO is full of it!
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  #45  
Old 05-19-2015, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
Take from the first post of this thread...

"The guy is a recently retired International dealer, had rebuilt and over-bored the engine himself. It supposedly had about an hour of run time since rebuild."

I'm speechless looking at your pictures...The PO is full of it!
It just seems to me that the so called "IH dealer" is another one of those who shouldn't be allowed to use tools. He might not be full of it after all as it seems the piston looks very clean and new. The rest of the motor looks like it hasn't been touched...... go figure!
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  #46  
Old 05-19-2015, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy-O View Post
It just seems to me that the so called "IH dealer" is another one of those who shouldn't be allowed to use tools. He might not be full of it after all as it seems the piston looks very clean and new. The rest of the motor looks like it hasn't been touched...... go figure!
That's kinda what I thought. I wiped everything down with shop towels, scrubbed the carbon with a plastic brush, blew everything down, and the piston head looks spanking new compared to everything else.
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LT1050 w/ 50" deck, 680 Hydro w/ 38" deck, 1450 w/ 50" deck, 109 w/ 38" deck
1A tiller, 42" snow blade (x2), cw-36 snow thrower, H42 snow thrower, #1 cart, 8" Brinly plow, Unk cultivator, Sears rear blade, extra k301, more extra decks and parts than space to put them.
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  #47  
Old 05-19-2015, 12:20 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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What does the top of the piston say? I'm not convinced it's new.

Exhaust valve isn't sealing.

I'd say the exhaust valve is hanging up.

Post some better pics. Ones of the cylinder bore, one of the piston, maybe a better shot of the lifter galley. Try and post them not rotated..... Hurts my neck.


That engine WAS NOT rebuilt.
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  #48  
Old 05-19-2015, 12:45 PM
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I'll get some better pics this evening j-mech. Phone to computer transfer is weird. Thumbnail will be right and pic rotated. I'll fix them.
Top of the piston says 020.
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LT1050 w/ 50" deck, 680 Hydro w/ 38" deck, 1450 w/ 50" deck, 109 w/ 38" deck
1A tiller, 42" snow blade (x2), cw-36 snow thrower, H42 snow thrower, #1 cart, 8" Brinly plow, Unk cultivator, Sears rear blade, extra k301, more extra decks and parts than space to put them.
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  #49  
Old 05-19-2015, 02:00 PM
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Don't know if any of these will help, but here you go.








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LT1050 w/ 50" deck, 680 Hydro w/ 38" deck, 1450 w/ 50" deck, 109 w/ 38" deck
1A tiller, 42" snow blade (x2), cw-36 snow thrower, H42 snow thrower, #1 cart, 8" Brinly plow, Unk cultivator, Sears rear blade, extra k301, more extra decks and parts than space to put them.
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  #50  
Old 05-20-2015, 05:20 PM
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And then there's this...
Crack runs through right up to the valve seat.


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1A tiller, 42" snow blade (x2), cw-36 snow thrower, H42 snow thrower, #1 cart, 8" Brinly plow, Unk cultivator, Sears rear blade, extra k301, more extra decks and parts than space to put them.
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