149 broken

[ab147]

biggie56, that's what I had planned on doing, got to find a mic that big, I've only got one, and it's max is 1in.

[ab147]

finally got around to borrowing a mic and a bore gauge, and got these measurements reading top to bottom 90deg. apart.
3.497 3.505

3.503 3.503


3.498 3.498

crank measured 1.497 everywhere I checked it.

Can I use a standard piston and crank or will this have to be bored? I'm not a machinist so some of the measurements may not be 100% but they're close. thanks.

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by ab147

finally got around to borrowing a mic and a bore gauge, and got these measurements reading top to bottom 90deg. apart.
3.497 3.505

3.503 3.503


3.498 3.498

crank measured 1.497 everywhere I checked it.

Can I use a standard piston and crank or will this have to be bored? I'm not a machinist so some of the measurements may not be 100% but they're close. thanks.

I'm no machinist, but I don't think you should bore an engine without having the piston first to allow for variances. So I wouldn't be comfortable just throwing in a new piston into a worn engine.

If you have it apart and have gone this far, I think it's worth the money to get it bored to match a new piston.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by ab147

finally got around to borrowing a mic and a bore gauge, and got these measurements reading top to bottom 90deg. apart.
3.497 3.505

3.503 3.503


3.498 3.498

crank measured 1.497 everywhere I checked it.

Can I use a standard piston and crank or will this have to be bored? I'm not a machinist so some of the measurements may not be 100% but they're close. thanks.

Ok, listen, I'll lay this out for you. Using a real bore gauge isn't easy. If the gauge hasn't been calibrated for the size of bore you are reading, and if you have never used one before, I am really going to doubt your readings.

Since you have taken the motor this far apart, and since we already know the crank needs ground, NO!! No, you need to bore it, you need to grind the crank and please stop asking for opinions. You have asked at every step what to do, and you always seem to listen to the people who aren't known on here for their engine rebuilding abilities. Just take the block to a shop, pay them to bore it, grind the crank and then you can put it back together. Do it correctly, and you won't regret it. Kits aren't that expensive, if you need guidance where to buy, just ask and we can show you, but stop trying not to rebuild it. JUST DO IT.


You know what.... What do I know. Just run a hone through it, buy a new standard rod, piston and rings and throw it back together. Don't even mess with a gasket kit, you can silicone it back together. It will last as long as the rebuild will.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Ok, listen, I'll lay this out for you. Using a real bore gauge isn't easy. If the gauge hasn't been calibrated for the size of bore you are reading, and if you have never used one before, I am really going to doubt your readings.

Since you have taken the motor this far apart, and since we already know the crank needs ground, NO!! No, you need to bore it, you need to grind the crank and please stop asking for opinions. You have asked at every step what to do, and you always seem to listen to the people who aren't known on here for their engine rebuilding abilities. Just take the block to a shop, pay them to bore it, grind the crank and then you can put it back together. Do it correctly, and you won't regret it. Kits aren't that expensive, if you need guidance where to buy, just ask and we can show you, but stop trying not to rebuild it. JUST DO IT.


You know what.... What do I know. Just run a hone through it, buy a new standard rod, piston and rings and throw it back together. Don't even mess with a gasket kit, you can silicone it back together. It will last as long as the rebuild will.

I agree with what J-Mech said in the first paragraph. By time the engine is hone it will be close to being if not out of spec. It needs bored and the crank needs ground.

I had a party who didn't want to spend the money to do the work I recommended to do......bore .010, undersize the crank and a new rod. He wanted to "just put rings in it" . He was told it would be an oil burner and possibly down on power in a few years. Three years later he was back complaining I didn't know what was doing and I needed to eat the cost this time for rebuilding his engine. I dug out my sheet that had all the measurements (before and after) from 3 years ago. It had a note on it stating the owner did not want to spend the funds to do what I recommended at that time and his signature on the sheet.
Long story short.....Engine needed bored .020 to get it back in specs. 3 years before .010 would have did the job and he paid for it.

by J-Mech
You know what.... What do I know. Just run a hone through it, buy a new standard rod, piston and rings and throw it back together. Don't even mess with a gasket kit, you can silicone it back together. It will last as long as the rebuild will.

J-Mech is one of the few on this site who understands what needs done to keep the old IH Cub Cadets running. Hang in there my friend and keep up the good work.

[dbuck]

Any person with reasonable common sense, would take J-Mech and Merk's, Dvogtvpe advice. Sure you have to lay out the buck's. My late Father would always told me. Why is it you do not have the time to the job correctly, but you have time to do it over. Think about it.

[Sam Mac]

Entertaining thread. Just my 2 cents, you can do it the right way or you can jury rig it. Your engine and your $$$. As far as I'm concerned when it comes to old Kohlers we have 3 of the best here on OCC, dvogtvpe, Merk and J-Mech listed in no particular order. I suggest that you take the advice they give you if you want the engine to last.

Now I'll sit back and enjoy the show.

[dbuck]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Entertaining thread. Just my 2 cents, you can do it the right way or you can jury rig it. Your engine and your $$$. As far as I'm concerned when it comes to old Kohlers we have 3 of the best here on OCC, dvogtvpe, Merk and J-Mech listed in no particular order. I suggest that you take the advice they give you if you want the engine to last.

Now I'll sit back and enjoy the show.

Your are certainly correct about those three being the best. I do not know how I missed dvogtvpe post. I edited my post to included his name. But their are some people that given advice goes in one ear and out the other.

[Sam Mac]

I just hate to see people spend money only to have to do it over. There is a thread in the general section about just that.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=45394