Mild hop-ups

[Stratmoore Farms]

Originally Posted by Merk

Reread post #21. There is a part about what I do every 30 days. One of the problems you are having is old fuel.

Old fuel is the #1 problem I see with small engines that I work on. Todays fuel is design for engines that have more than 2 cylinders and should be used in 30 days.

As I stated in post #21.....Running 90 plus octane will lower any engine performace and leave more carbon deposits.

I've been doing the ethanol-fuel storing process for 10 years with more fuel related problems.

It's you engine......run what you want to

I agree with the old fuel being a problem. I usually don't buy more than I can use up with-in a few weeks so fuel sitting in a can for extended periods usually isn't a problem for me. Between the various mowers, Gator, etc. gas disapears pretty quickly around here.

Where I was messing up was at the end of the season. Not draining the tank or running it dry the last time it was used because I might need it "one more time" in a week or so. Then by Spring the ethanol has gummed up everything. In the old days, if you left gas in there all Winter you may have to drain and start over, but at least you didn't have to pull apart and clean everything. This ethanol gas causes a lot more problems when it sits in the fuel system very long.

Where practical or possible, I have put a shut off valve in the fuel lines of most of my stuff now. Just shut the valve and let the engine burn off the fuel in the line and carb. Much easier and not as much gas wasted. And if I don't need it that "one more time" I can still drain the tank come Spring.

I have also found that if it sits for an extended period, the tank should either be completely empty or completely full. Less chance of condensation that way (empty is better than full, but full is better than half a tank.)

For what it's worth, I wasn't disagreeing or arguing with you, I was trying to be better informed. You post was the first time I had ever heard that it is better to run the lower octane, even if it has ethanol, than to run the higher octane since the higher octane is the only way to get ethanol free gas, at least where I live. I do understand that what you are saying is that it is an octane issue, higher verses lower, and an issue of old verses fresh, not an issue of ethanol or non-ethanol.

[Shrewcub]

Even though gas doesn't seem to last long around me, I treat every tank I buy.
I was using Star Tron http://www.starbrite.com/en/startron which is a great product.
Now I am using Archoil AR6200 http://www.archoil.com/ar6200-fuel-m...ation-complex/. I put almost 600 miles on my truck Sunday. Before I left I put 10 ml of AR6200 in my tank. First fill up 16 mpg(trucks norm), Second fill up almost 18 mpg. My driving habits are consistent and the trip was mostly in the mountains. BTW the 2nd tank had about 600 lbs of Cub stuff in the truck and I didn't add any more 6200 to that tank. I think I will add some every other fill up from now on. I fill up at 1/4 tank(never replaced an in tank fuel pump on any vehicle I own).

Both products claim to counteract ethanol's downfalls and stabilize fuel for at least 2 years. I am going to set aside a gallon and test it.

[olds45512]

I'm just gonna put a supercharger on mine, that has to be what that extra pulley by the clutch is for.

[dvogtvpe]

Originally Posted by olds45512

I'm just gonna put a supercharger on mine, that has to be what that extra pulley by the clutch is for.

Let us know how long it takes to kick the rod out the side

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

Let us know how long it takes to kick the rod out the side

your no fun.

[dvogtvpe]

no, I just realize the weak point of the engine. and that's the weak link in a K single

[CubCadet129]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If you wanna add a little more power to it...... Bump up the timing about 2-3°, and set the high-idle, no-load to 3800 RPM. Then set the governor to one, or 2 holes above stock setting. That'll help it.

I wouldn't set pt he speed to higher than stock on a stock motor. I even get a little worried running em at full throttle at stock speed constantly and 3/4 throttle is usually enough for most jobs.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by CubCadet129

I wouldn't set pt he speed to higher than stock on a stock motor. I even get a little worried running em at full throttle at stock speed constantly and 3/4 throttle is usually enough for most jobs.

Well, with a little experience with engines you'll learn what they can handle. I'm pretty sure the guys trust my opinion. No need to be concerned, they'll run 3800 just fine.

[CubCadet129]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Nothing...... if you use it and it doesn't get stale. Fresh fuel is what Merk is getting out. Years ago, when gas could sit a year without getting stale, we bought 100 gallons or so of fuel just for the mower and gas tractors. I don't think fuel could sit in a bulk tank now for that long. By the time the 6mo mark rolled around, I think you would start having problems. Shoot, I get small engines in here every spring that people say won't start. Drain last fall's gas out and they fire right up. Gasoline has too much alcohol in it now for it to stay good for very long. BIO FUEL SUCKS!!! I prefer dead dinosaur fuel and diesel with sulfur in it. Smells better, runs better.

Right now ur lucky to get 1.5 to 3 months out of gas before it starts to go bad

[Merk]

Originally Posted by Stratmoore Farms

I agree with the old fuel being a problem.

Where I was messing up was at the end of the season. Not draining the tank or running it dry the last time it was used because I might need it "one more time" in a week or so. Then by Spring the ethanol has gummed up everything. In the old days, if you left gas in there all Winter you may have to drain and start over, but at least you didn't have to pull apart and clean everything. This ethanol gas causes a lot more problems when it sits in the fuel system very long.

Both of my 100s and 70 usually sit from early December to early March. My 149 sits the majority of the summer. The only thing I do to my IH Cub Cadets is shut the fuel off and let the carbs run dry when I'm done running them for the day. I never touch the carb(s) on any of them since they were running. I try to leave gas tanks empty when I'm done running them. This way I will add fresh fuel when I use them again.

One thing I do before adding fuel to any small engine is shake the container to make sure the different ingredients in the fuel are mix. 2 cycle gas is a good example. Pour some gas out of a container that has 2 cycle mix without shaking the container.....you will get straight gas for a few seconds before you get the gas-oil mix.....and them it won't be the right ratio (gas to oil). Shake the container and pour the gas-oil mix....you will get gas-oil mix right away. Odds are the gas-oil mixture will be close to what the manufacture specs are. All the ingredients in the fuel we run have different weights and some will go to the bottom of the tank because they are heavier. Ethanol is one of the heavier ingredients. By leaving my fuel tank more towards the empty side I am mixing the fuel in the engine's fuel tank when I'm adding new fuel to the engine's fuel tank.

Most automobiles have a fuel return system built into them. The auto makers figured that a long time ago. Yes, some autos have some fuel issues-most of them do not have a fuel return system built in them.

I'm not sure how you rebuild a carb or how much fuel from the bulk tank is used. As I said in the past the gas in a bulk fuel tank will go flat enough so a small engine will have problems running right on it.

I'm trying to better informed everyone. What I do works.