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Reload this Page 109 Not running right and pink exhaust valve?
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  #41  
Old 07-09-2014, 07:45 PM
specthompson specthompson is offline
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I have the tin work for the head and whatever else
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  #42  
Old 07-09-2014, 07:49 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by specthompson View Post
I have the tin work for the head and whatever else
OK, did you just not put it back on yet? It was on before right? If not, that could have contributed to the hot spots......
Also, if you didn't put the tins on behind the carb (can't tell if you did or not) you have to remove the carb to put them on.

On the carb.... How did you set it?
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  #43  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:15 PM
specthompson specthompson is offline
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I didnt know the heat sheilds on the motor did anything other than protect your hands if you tried to touch the engine while it was hot. It has the tins behind the carb. The carb is perfectly fine since i cleaned it last month. And when i clean a carb, i REALLY clean it. All i did to the carb was ritchen it up a bit.
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  #44  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:38 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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those shields guide the air for proper cooling. when you cleaned the carb did you remove the brass emulsion tube that goes in from the bottom ?
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  #45  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:39 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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It's an air cooled engine. The tins are there to direct air flow across the fins to keep it cool. They are EXTREMELY important. DO NOT run it without them, unless for just a short period for testing.
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  #46  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:46 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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Planing the head is a good idea since you've obviously been running it hot, but I would suspect that it will just blow a gasket out if its that bad and since you just put a new gasket in (I hope you used a new one) it seems silly to take it off, plane it, and put ANOTHER new gasket in unless you've eliminated all other options. So far, there's still plenty to do elsewhere.

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Originally Posted by dvogtvpe View Post
those shields guide the air for proper cooling.
^What he said... But I'm going to say it again because it IS so important. Those shields play a major role in the cooling of the engine. That could be a good portion of what started your problem and why you need 90.

edit: LOL... Looks like I'm the 3rd guy to the party. RUN THE TINS!
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  #47  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:52 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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This question hasn't ask (at least I haven't found the question)-how much play in the throttle shaft?
A throttle shaft with some play in it will cause a lean condition.
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  #48  
Old 07-09-2014, 09:12 PM
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Shrewcub Shrewcub is offline
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This question hasn't ask (at least I haven't found the question)-how much play in the throttle shaft?
A throttle shaft with some play in it will cause a lean condition.
J did mention that in the first couple couple pages. Spray it with some carb cleaner while running to check for leakage. Rpm should jump if there is a leak.

P.S. Don't hit the exhaust with it if it is hot!
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  #49  
Old 07-10-2014, 10:27 PM
specthompson specthompson is offline
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Ill try that here in a minute. There doesnt seem to be a whole lot of slop compared to ones ive seen. I used to have a 1450 with at LEAST 1/8" of slop in one direction. Also i pulled my plug again, its a grey/white color now which im thinking is too lean still? What color am i looking for?

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  #50  
Old 07-10-2014, 10:31 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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To me, that looks ok-to-maybe a little lean. How long was it in there?

See J's thread on plug conditions:

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showt...t=listen+parts
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