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  #41  
Old 05-07-2011, 12:25 AM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Forgot to mention I poked a hole in the old float repair (which looked like solder) and drained the gas out before resealing it. Not sure how long my solder will last but it buys me a little time.
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  #42  
Old 05-07-2011, 08:30 AM
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toyman toyman is offline
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Hey guys, don't want to step on this thread, BUT, since your talking carbs, I'm having a little issue with my 70. Had it tore down and now it's back together. It ran fine before the teardown, but I'm having a little trouble getting it started. I rebuilt the carb (Cleaned, new bowl gaskets, needle & seat, float in good condition, fast idle 2 3/4 turns out, slow idle 1 1/2 turns out), and I can see the fuel atomizing when it's trying to start, so I have fuel. If I hold my hand over the carb while starting, theres lots of vacuum and it seals very tight, so I feel I have good enough compression to get fuel to the cylinder. I timed it with the multimeter, and it's on the money (S centered). I've pulled the plug and held the electrode against the body and have good spark. Plug is gapped at 025. It just won't fire. Even if I spray carb cleaner in the carb or down the plug hole. It's new fuel with Stabil and the tank & strainer are clean. Any suggestions?
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  #43  
Old 05-07-2011, 08:44 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne View Post
Forgot to mention I poked a hole in the old float repair (which looked like solder) and drained the gas out before resealing it. Not sure how long my solder will last but it buys me a little time.
I have been repairing floats since the 1950's like that.
First I find the hole, usually it is a crack, as brass tends to do that, but sometimes it is a flaw in the brass.
I have also seen them damaged by moisture freezing in the bowl.
Squeezing it gently with my fingers, or heat it slightly, the leak becomes apparent.
Then I poke a hole in a easily soldered corner, with a dental pick, and drain it.
I then solder the original crack, followed by the drain hole I made.
It is a permanent repair, no need to replace the float.
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  #44  
Old 05-08-2011, 11:31 PM
cub108 cub108 is offline
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finally, got the 108 working. rebuilt carb, new spark plug, new points, repaired the original shut off valve, points cover gasket, and changed the oil.
The thing runs awsome.
Now, I can be out cutting the grass along with doing other things showing off the cub to the evil guy down the street with a wheel horse.
thanks to everyone that helped me out.
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  #45  
Old 05-08-2011, 11:32 PM
cub108 cub108 is offline
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Sorry,
I said a forbidden name. I meant "A red tractor"
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  #46  
Old 05-08-2011, 11:47 PM
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I have a red tractor and it isn't a bad name... LOL

Glad you got yours up and running.
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  #47  
Old 05-09-2011, 01:28 AM
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I've got a neighbor with a really nice Kubota with a front end loader. He seems to put down more seat time than anyone on the block. Can't blame him.
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  #48  
Old 05-12-2011, 01:15 AM
cub108 cub108 is offline
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ya I know cubs are in red too. right when i sent the post i realized that. I was just waiting for someone to rip on me.
later
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  #49  
Old 05-18-2011, 02:15 AM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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ARG Today when I ran the tractor for a while gas was pouring out the carb just like before the rebuild. Its probably the float repair I did-I'm not a good solderer. I cant afford a new float for a few weeks so whatdya think is my next best option-a little JB weld or metal epoxy? Duct tape? (just kiddin!)
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  #50  
Old 05-18-2011, 02:31 AM
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I have always tested my carb floats by letting them sit in a pan of water for a while. submerge it a few times, see if it takes on any water or sinks. if not, that is not your problem.
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