Dave's 1650 Project - Page 47

CC1650Dave · #**461** 10-16-2011, 11:18 PM

That's cool Nick. I think a lot of this could be condensed down to take out some of the discussion and get to the point.

I don't claim any ownership over what I'm writing here, but to get credit for my work is cool...

I still need to go back and put in some more edit notes for what I didn't get at the time.

ndanger · #**462** 10-17-2011, 07:58 AM

I played around with this yesterday. It seems worthwhile to me to leave the various comments and back-and-forth in as well as the meat of the how-to info. Due to the way that the text and photos translated, the pagination is a little messed up. I'll play with that, clean it up and post it on the CC site (not sure where yet). After removing the easy stuff, it was still almost 600 pages when I got done with yesterday's effort.

Also, I can go back and add in any updates that you make.

Methos · #**463** 10-17-2011, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ndanger

I played around with this yesterday. It seems worthwhile to me to leave the various comments and back-and-forth in as well as the meat of the how-to info. Due to the way that the text and photos translated, the pagination is a little messed up. I'll play with that, clean it up and post it on the CC site (not sure where yet). After removing the easy stuff, it was still almost 600 pages when I got done with yesterday's effort.

Also, I can go back and add in any updates that you make.

Thanks for taking this huge task on! Looking forward to a pdf of this thread!

CC1650Dave · #**464** 10-17-2011, 09:30 AM

Just realized I called Dave "Nick" yesterday - I was just thinking "Nick Danger" and forgot that wasn't his name. Sorry 'bout that!

And yeah, there's still a lot of work to be done and a lot of updates.

ndanger · #**465** 10-17-2011, 08:58 PM

No worries about calling me Nick, Dave. I am used to it. I am actually known as "Nick Danger" in certain social circles where Firesign Theatre is well known, and as Nick" at work because there are too many Daves ("Nick" is clearly a good nickname).

Today I read through about 500 of the 600 pages of the initial PDF that I created of this thread. There is a lot of material of which I was unaware, and much of it has me thinking now of all of the things I need to check on both my QLs (engine mounts, for instance). It also makes me want to refurb my 1650 - but I need it running for the winter, so that will have to wait. Maybe I'll do the 1250 if I can clear out space in my shop.

I also want to reiterate what many contributors to this thread have already expressed - your work and your documentation are superb. I know that the information (particularly the photos and explanation of "gotchas") will save me a great deal of time as I bring my two QLs up to par. Excellent job.

One question: did you ever get a PDF of the parts manual? I think I might have one if you did not. I bought a DVD that has about a bizillion CC manuals on it. I will probably upload the ones that are not in the technical section of this forum at some point (e.g., when I have some time), but I thought I'd ask about the 1650 parts manual in particular.

CC1650Dave · #**466** 10-20-2011, 12:56 PM

No, I never did get a PDF parts manual. I've been using the exploded diagrams at partstree.com when I need to see something, but it usually excludes fasteners.

I was wondering if the parts manual was any different than what I'd find at partstree anyway? Seems like they've just digitized it...

ndanger · #**467** 10-20-2011, 04:14 PM

It is (as near as I can tell without checking every part number and assembly) the same as on Parts Tree, but without the updated part numbers that you occasionally find in Parts Tree. I find it easier to use to parts manual sometimes when I want to understand the entire assembly.

I can email a copy of it to you - I sent a copy to Duke so it could get uploaded to the tech section on this forum. PM me for my email address if you want me to do that.

BTW, I have just finished a "draft" copy of the PDF of this thread. I need to review it, then I'll post it or get it posted. Myself, I plan to put it on my iPad and have it in the shop with me!

CC1650Dave · #**468** 10-25-2011, 11:21 PM

Getting back to the Reassembly steps.

Step 15: Install Stator

My K341 is a flywheel-magneto ignition system, so the stator mounts up stationary to the bearing plate. As I noted earlier, unless your stator was bad, you didn't really need to ever remove it completely, but it did need to hang free so the bearing plate could be bolted up.

Step 16: Install flywheel, grass screen, and drive cup or rope start pulley.

Read the service manual for several key notes about installing your flywheel. It's critical for safety.

After getting the key in properly and the flywheel on, the drive cup goes in place and (since mine is the "older style" with an outside threaded shaft) I put the heavy washer and then the hex nut on, and tightened it to 55 ft lbs.

Don't install the grass screen at this time. It goes on after the blower housing. Maybe some of the Kohlers would have had you put it on first, but not the K341 in my Cub.

Important Tip: Now is a good time to clean up the timing marks on the outside edge of the flywheel, before you put the blower housing in place. Wire brush them clean so they're easily visible, maybe even mark them with some paint or something. Especially the "S" mark, as this is the one you'll be using to do your timing. You're going to be looking through a small peep hole in the housing in low light, so you'll need to assure it's visible.

Step 17: Install blower housing

Now you can bolt up your blower housing, followed by the grass screen. The grass screen screws (for my steel screen) are supposed to be torqued, so I used a 1/4" socket with a #3 phillips head in it.

Leave all of your blower housing fasteners loose for now, you'll need to pull them back out to put some of your other engine tins on later.

CC1650Dave · #**469** 10-25-2011, 11:49 PM

Step 18: Install cylinder head and spark plug

First is the head gasket. If you bought an aftermarket rebuild kit, this is one of the parts that you're going to want to buy a genuine Kohler part. Matt details this on Page 6 of his Head Gasket Replacement How-To. Read about the fire ring. And of course, make sure you surfaced the head following the procedure Matt outlined in that same document. I did a write-up on it earlier in this thread as well, before I knew I was going to do a whole rebuild.

I used all new Grade 8 bolts. Follow the service manual for the tightening sequence. Per the manual, my bolts were torqued to 28 ft lbs, and I did it in three rounds. 10 lbs first time through the sequence, 20 the second, then 28 lbs.

Then you can install your spark plug and torque it to spec.

CC1650Dave · #**470** 10-26-2011, 12:05 AM

Step 19: Install Breather Assembly

This breather assembly is a bit of a puzzle, so I thought I'd take several pictures of how it goes back together. There is a good exploded view in the service manual anyway.

Plate gasket and breather plate first. Note that the oil drain hole on the breather plate is in the down position:

Then the reed:

The baffle:

The filter and seal: (Note: The rebuild kit I purchased came with the seal, but did not include the filter. I bought a new Kohler one from the dealer.)

The cover gasket:

And finally the cover:

Put the nut on and snug it up, and on to the next step.