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  #31  
Old 02-12-2022, 01:47 PM
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I bought the muffler from Cub Cadet Specialties. This is the first aftermarket muffler I have found for a Quiet line series and have no idea how effective it is. Rolling the dice....
Looking forward to the final product.

I've only rebuilt one cub, my 1282, due to sentimental value. Sadly it's a lot more economical to get a parts engine. In the case of my 1711, I had nothing into it, and went with a Command (that paid for itself).

Certainly better to keep some things original
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1282 | 44C Deck, 42" Blade, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, M18, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck * 1914 | 44C Deck, KT17 Series II * 127 * 1650 Twin Stick | 50C Deck, 42QA Snow Thrower, K341 * 1862
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  #32  
Old 08-18-2023, 02:31 PM
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I had some vacation time off from work. So, it was time to get this 1450 project finished. As I mentioned before, this tractor had all of the Quiet Line afflictions including a tired engine. The engine was the easiest part of this project. You can see pics about the engine in previous pics. I had to replace the air duct housing along with an aftermarket muffler and a "muffler crutch". The muffler is heavier than the OEM but mounts easily and is very quiet! Since this was a late model 1450, I cut off the excess exhaust pipe. ( Does not protrude through the grill)
I installed new rag joints and hardware but broke my own rule...I did not install new couplers and drive shaft. I started the tractor....engine runs great but tractor had severe vibration! So, dang it all I have to change out the worn parts. Fortunately, I had a new shaft and couplers on hand...changed them out. Much smoother....for a Quiet Line. Finished assembling the unit and installed the mower deck. The unit will be a worker and not show piece. It needs a bath and it will get it after I mow some grass with it.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_20230818_092943188_HDR.jpg (24.5 KB, 121 views)
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  #33  
Old 08-18-2023, 02:35 PM
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I also installed a new field coil since the old one beyond repair.



The completed tractor!
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File Type: jpg IMG_20230818_101149712.jpg (46.4 KB, 122 views)
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  #34  
Old 08-19-2023, 10:33 PM
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That's so cool! I love seeing these tractors still going strong.
My 1250 needs the cork gasket replaced. Can it be done without splitting the tractor or am I just dreaming?
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  #35  
Old 08-20-2023, 07:49 AM
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That's so cool! I love seeing these tractors still going strong.
My 1250 needs the cork gasket replaced. Can it be done without splitting the tractor or am I just dreaming?
Hi Randy. Yes you can replace the cork gasket without splitting the tractor. However, the drive line should be removed to gain access...you may open a Pandora's box by taking an old Quiet Line drive line apart. Remember that little pump is heavy. BTW, I did change the cork gasket on the 1450 without splitting the tractor.
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  #36  
Old 08-20-2023, 10:49 PM
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Hi Randy. Yes you can replace the cork gasket without splitting the tractor. However, the drive line should be removed to gain access...you may open a Pandora's box by taking an old Quiet Line drive line apart. Remember that little pump is heavy. BTW, I did change the cork gasket on the 1450 without splitting the tractor.
Thanks, I'm going to try it. It's getting bad.
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  #37  
Old 08-21-2023, 09:33 AM
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Hi Randy. Yes you can replace the cork gasket without splitting the tractor. However, the drive line should be removed to gain access...you may open a Pandora's box by taking an old Quiet Line drive line apart. Remember that little pump is heavy. BTW, I did change the cork gasket on the 1450 without splitting the tractor.
I need to replace the cork gasket on my 1450 too. I assumed its obvious you need to remove the driveshaft to remove the pump without splitting the tractor? there nowhere to pull the pump off otherwise.
I have replacement flex couplers that I'm going to replace at the same time and If I can get the motor mount mod welded on a spare pair of mount brackets i bought and borrow an engine lift to upgrade that and the the oil pan. The motor mount are sagging and I figured its best to "fix" the whole drivetrain and not run with it partially redone.
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  #38  
Old 08-21-2023, 09:39 AM
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I need to replace the cork gasket on my 1450 too. I assumed its obvious you need to remove the driveshaft to remove the pump without splitting the tractor? there nowhere to pull the pump off otherwise.
I have replacement flex couplers that I'm going to replace at the same time and If I can get the motor mount mod welded on a spare pair of mount brackets i bought and borrow an engine lift to upgrade that and the the oil pan. The motor mount are sagging and I figured its best to "fix" the whole drivetrain and not run with it partially redone.
Make sure you get a new drive shaft and the couplings for each end of the drive shaft. I would also strongly recommend replacing the swivel bearing on both ends too, otherwise, a nasty vibration may occur.
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  #39  
Old 08-21-2023, 12:43 PM
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Make sure you get a new drive shaft and the couplings for each end of the drive shaft. I would also strongly recommend replacing the swivel bearing on both ends too, otherwise, a nasty vibration may occur.
what is the "swivel bearing"? I'm looking at the parts diagram and don't see the normal driveshaft in the assemblies, just the clutch dissconnect option.
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  #40  
Old 08-21-2023, 01:25 PM
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what is the "swivel bearing"? I'm looking at the parts diagram and don't see the normal driveshaft in the assemblies, just the clutch dissconnect option.
https://ccspecialties.org/pics/bushingball.jpg

There is one on the engine side where the front flex disc mounts and one on the hydro input shaft coupler.

https://ccspecialties.org/pics/flangelarge.jpg

https://ccspecialties.org/pics/919-3027coupling.jpg
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