Oil Leak - Page 4

Mr Bob · #31 02-09-2019, 08:46 PM

Yesterday, I pulled the engine on my 149 to locate the oil leak. I was going to inspect the breather assembly as Ironman suggested, but I just forgot. After pulling the fly wheel, I could see where oil was leaking down from the bearing plate to the oil pan. I noticed some jagged places on the bearing plate that the bearing passes over on install. I must have scarred this surface when I removed the old seal. I didn't recall seeing them as I installed the new seal, but they were surely there. I used a big socket tool to drive the new seal in place. The seal is in about 5/8 inch in stead of 1/2 inch. There is a little more than 1/16 inch between seal and bearing. Could the jagged places on bearing plate cut the seal enough to leak? I will smooth out the bearing plate before installing new seal. Also going to inspect the breather assembly as Ironman suggested. Few pictures attached. All help appreciated, have a great day.

Bob

sawdustdad · #32 02-09-2019, 10:39 PM

I put a thin smear of hi temp RTV sealant on the perimeter of the oil seal right before seating it whenever the bore is rough or has any bad spots.

The seal is only supposed to be seated 1/8 inch deep in the bearing plate bore.

Be sure the area of the crankshaft that the seal rubs on is smooth.

It's entirely possible that crankcase pressure is pushing oil out past the seal. It's important to make sure the breather assembly is assembled correctly. The manual has a good diagram. If not assembled correctly, it won't let crankcase pressure out and it can build up and push oil out the seals.

Mr Bob · #33 02-10-2019, 11:50 AM

Thanks for your help SawdustDad. I am going to take the breather apart to see if anything looks wrong. Going to smooth out the seal bore and using a sealant is a good idea. The seal I am having trouble with is the front seal (flywheel end) and the service manual says 1/2 inch. I attached a photo so you can see what I am working with. The seal in the picture is the one that is leaking. Do you use Kohler seals? This seal came in a rebuild kit and is probably not Kohler. Thanks for taking the time to help and have a great day.
Bob

sawdustdad · #34 02-10-2019, 08:40 PM

For a k341, yes, the table says 1/2 inch depth. I've been working on a K241, which is 1/8 inch.

Doesn't matter if it's a Kohler seal or not. I think I'm using Stens parts.

dodge trucker · #35 02-10-2019, 10:25 PM

I don't believe that Kohler ever made their own seals. even though it comes in a OEM Kohler package.
Ive gotten Stens and pro line parts before for different engines, not just seals, many parts that were OEM Kohler parts that were repackaged.
Ignition parts and gaskets/ seals especially.
No matter what I am working on, when dealing with bearings and seals I try to find them in a brand like SKF, CR, National, Timken, etc. cuz even in a "Kohler" package that is what you are really getting anyways.

In fact I am looking at a pair of crank bearings as I type this reply, that would fit your engine. They are going into a K341 that I am rebuilding because the engine came from a tractor that was rescued from a barn fire. They are in a Kohler box, with a Kohler PN on the box but I took them out of the pkg and they have BCA 308 stamped into them. Seals are marked similarly though they can be extremely tough to read them. just using that for example. In that example you can go to most auto parts stores or bearing supply houses with that number and get exactly the same thing for much less than from Kohler themselves.
as far as depth below surface, I do not get how being a K301 vs a 301 AS vs an AQS or even a K301T (I have one of those sitting here too) matters, how deep to drive the seal below the surface. they are all K301s. I usually just drive them in somewhere between flush and 1/8" sunk in. Never had one leak. just be sure to get it in evenly.

That said, I have had lip seals leak in other applications that I have had to redo, most notably CV axle seals on FWD GM cars, usually due to a past person working on it gouging the seal surface. So since then I have taken to wiping a slight smear of RTV on the outer surface of the seal body before I drive them in.
unless they have a rubber "sort of" Oring built into that surface. then I won't add any sealer.

Mr Bob · #36 03-10-2019, 10:56 PM

Put a new Reed and a new filter in the breather. Replaced the front oil seal and installed it even with the lip on the bearing plate. Engine is back in tractor and was ran for about fifteen minutes. Sitting in garage for two days and no oil under tractor. Sure hope the leak is fixed. The shop manual call for to quarts oil to fill. My engine only took one and a half quarts. The oil pan has a deep end on one end. Could this a misprint in the shop manual? I hope I did not put two quarts in the last fill after engine rebuild. I wouldn't put it past me.

Thanks for all the help and guidance. Could not have gotten this far with out the members input. Thanks again and have a great day.
Bob