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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#31
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I hate easy outs.
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#32
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Agreed. If it doesn’t budge right away it will end up snapping. I deal with a lot of rusted allens at my job and have found that if most of the ways mentioned (not in that order) are unsuccessful, my go to last resort before drilling it out is pounding a torqxe socket into the Allen and try. The many teeth of the bit grip and bite into the Allen and also the shock of hitting it in there will sometimes help loosen it. If even more stubborn I put a 1/4 or 3/8 breaker bar on it (depending on size) and hit on the breaker bar while applying pressure to loosen. Using an impact driver works as well but you can’t “feel” what you’re doing as much because the impact/breaking motion is only determined by how hard you hit it.
Let us know what works
__________________
(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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#33
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Quote:
Turn the nut on what's left of the set screw, mig weld it on and then try to turn it out. |
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#34
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Everyone, Thank you for your input, It's really great to have such support. The set screw is still stuck after many attempts using PB-Blaster, hammering it with a pin punch and using a new hex key after applying heat. The nib on the end of the set screw is definitely compromised now as my last attempt involved applying heat from my propane torch and then dremeling a slot for a flat head screwdriver into it. At this point, I'm not going to try mig welding. I'm sure this approach is solid, but I've never mig welded before and the engine is fairly heavy to be carting out to someone who can do the welding. Instead, I'm looking at purchasing Irwin Industrial Tool 11119 - Screw extractor with matching left hand cobalt bits. They look to be of good quality for working on hard steel and are available up here in Canada (not everything is). I'll let you how this ends up once I get these extractors and L/H bits.
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#35
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Quote:
I learned welding at a trade school, but to be frank, YouTube is pretty awesome when it comes to tutorials. You can become quite proficient in the time it takes to burn through 1/2 a roll of wire. Speaking of which, if you buy the cheap HF wire feed, throw the wire that comes with it, buy name brand wire, and never buy wire from HF again. It's a pretty decent little machine for puttering. I have a steel plate with a vise on the corner of my workbench, and the dented open box special welder I hesitated to buy has proved to become one of my favorite tools in the shop. Clarification - the $89.99 special is not a MIG welder, it's very similar but uses flux core welding wire in place of a shielding gas. Yes, a real nice MIG would be the proper tool, but I see little point in splitting hairs, they'll both heat the screw and stick a nut to the top of it. 110v wire feed is a good choice for home hobbyists that don't have a 220v outlet in the garage or any other need/desire to own more substantial equipment.
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Grumpy old 149/1A tiller, Trusty Rusty 106, & a Massey Ferguson 10 to work the garden, Tiny Snapper to mow the lawn. Slowly accumulating attachments and quickly driving the neighbors crazy on a half acre homestead.
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#36
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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#37
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It will prolly drill easier now that you have negated the heat treatment it once had with the application of heat from a propane torch
I've had some difficult jobs, but once you heat them up cherry red with a act/oxy torch, they usually loosen. @ this point I think you are going to have drill this one out. The pix makes it look shallow, if so, that is in your favor. I have some carbide bits I keep for special jobs but they are easily shattered, so caution is paramount and not to be used in a hand held drill motor. A good jobbers drill used slowly with lube, and pushed hard, should drill it. At least you have a good center point to get it started straight. Do as you like,but I don't like easy-outs They are for different situations. If the bolt, stud or setscrew was stubborn enough to break off/strip, an easy out will get you in more trouble when it breaks off in da hole, and do remember they are tapered so it expands the screw making a better grip on the threads. That Said: I'd try one more chance of heating it up, & driving a torex bit in it while hot/heating, and gripping the bit with a vice grip and working it both BOTH directions,while hot. if it moves either way, just a mere smidgen, it will eventually come out. If it moves ever so little, stop and go the other direction, you are trying to work it free, not muscle it out Also, bees wax applied will act as a lube when hot. Just be aware bees wax will flare up (ignite) so don't piss yer panties
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#38
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I'm following your advise ol'George. I'll proceed as you have laid out and keep mindful of not wetting myself in the process. Thanks.
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#39
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I can't believe it. Thank you for your superb guidance.
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#40
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Yeah!! Glad you got it out!
__________________
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