Winter Project 122

[cadetmike]

pleasantly surprised to find that I already have the better head!

[cadetmike]

Originally Posted by cadetmike

pleasantly surprised to find that I already have the better head!

more pics of the tare down

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[J-Mech]

That's pretty surprising. That engine has been replaced before.

See if the block has holes for a PTO behind the basket pulley when you get it off.

Oh, when you go to pull the basket pulley, if it's stubborn, Jeff in PA makes a pulley specifically for removing it. It's a worthwhile investment. If you don't use his puller, you can easily damage the pulley trying to get it off if it's stuck.

[Randy Littrell]

You have gotten a lot of great advice!

For what its worth, the first cub I bought was for stock pulling. First couple of pulls, I ran out of power and bogged down.

Had the head milled .040 and didn't run out of power after that. Motor was bone stock, nothing else done.



Your mileage may vary!


Randy

[cadetmike]

So I have the engine completely dissembled. I measured the crankpin and it definitely needs to be ground (.006 out of roud). Talked to the machinist and he said he would have to send the crank out, said it would be $100 to have it ground! and another $200 for the rest of the machining if I bring him a clean block. so much for a budget build, looks like I will have about $500 in the engine

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by cadetmike

So I have the engine completely dissembled. I measured the crankpin and it definitely needs to be ground (.006 out of roud). Talked to the machinist and he said he would have to send the crank out, said it would be $100 to have it ground! and another $200 for the rest of the machining if I bring him a clean block. so much for a budget build, looks like I will have about $500 in the engine

Find a different shop!!!!

Crank grind should cost $50. No more!
Bore and valve job less than $100. No more! (If they hot tank and crack check it you may hit the $100 mark.)
That shop is OVERPRICED!

You should be able to rebuild the whole thing including machining for around $350.

[cadetmike]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Find a different shop!!!!

Crank grind should cost $50. No more!
Bore and valve job less than $100. No more! (If they hot tank and crack check it you may hit the $100 mark.)
That shop is OVERPRICED!

You should be able to rebuild the whole thing including machining for around $350.

Yeah they do really nice work though... I will see what I can come up with, machine shops are not very abundant around here. I'm sure he is marking up the grind so that is not helping. Plus, the quote included surfacing the block and head, want to make sure it is flat!

Also looks like I will need a governor gear, the plastic surface that contacts the block seems to be melted; I was able to find one cheap on ebay though.

[Baccarat]

J-Mech: Excellent posts and points. Especially the detailed information on the engine rebuild. I'll tag it for future reference.

Mike

[cadetmike]

I Cleaned up the engine some. I found a much more reasonable place to get the machine work done; It will be headed there shortly.

Something caught my eye so I have included a pic of the carb, looks to me like its a #26, is that right? don't I want a #27?

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[cadetmike]

J-Mech, have you had any experience with the aftermarket carbs? I am thinking of just buying a new one since the original is pretty beat up; some of the threads are damaged and so on. I found many listings for them on ebay, here is one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-...0AAOSwz~paJYAP

What do you think?