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  #31  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:20 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by sorner View Post
The two bolt holes through the axle tube into the frame are split out and the front mount to the frame.
So, the axles tubes are split? Or the center case is split at the top bolt holes?


Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
All three mounts for the transmission to the frame are broken out and one frame bolt is broken off into the main housing.
There are four mounting points to the frame..... Where are you getting 3?
What frame bolt? The one through the axle tube? Or the front mounts on the side of the case?


Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
There’s no salvaging this one. The common failure of these when they aren’t braced. Make sense?
No.... not yet it doesn't.
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  #32  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:31 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
That and a pair of metric pliers.
You got me there. I DO OWN a strictly metric tape measure. Bad part is the numbers are worn off and Sears doesn't make it anymore (Its 27 years old).

Back to Sorners question on the Pliers, our set here came from Sears 25 years ago, very well made, don't know if they carry them any longer. Probably Napa or any non chain type auto parts store would have them, but I doubt they will be cheap. Now that you know what to look for, Ebay or Amazon if you can wait a couple days. Harbor Freight may even carry them, the quality may be iffy, as some of those type snap rings are pretty darn tough to deal with.
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  #33  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:53 PM
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sorner sorner is offline
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Quote:
No.... not yet it doesn't.
I misspoke on the mounting points count, all four mounting points on the left side. The two through the frame and axle carrier and the two through the front.

How bout now?

E806EABD-77CB-4B98-BCF7-D3322916BEE5.jpg

44B1D34C-5DD1-46C1-B014-0AEF85985B47.jpg

302104AF-65F5-4741-8EA2-E16AD1A9CC77.jpg
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  #34  
Old 10-01-2017, 09:56 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Thanks for the pics. That helps...... but I don't see anywhere it's damaged that deems it not usable....???? Where is it broken that you can't use that case?

Don't tell me the ears up on the front that are broken.... Once you install the rear end braces, you don't need those. Sam removes the mount plates altogether when he installs them. He should now what works, he designed the rear braces xtreme sells.
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  #35  
Old 10-01-2017, 10:03 PM
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sorner sorner is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Thanks for the pics. That helps...... but I don't see anywhere it's damaged that deems it not usable....???? Where is it broken that you can't use that case?

Don't tell me the ears up on the front that are broken.... Once you install the rear end braces, you don't need those. Sam removes the mount plates altogether when he installs them. He should now what works, he designed the rear braces xtreme sells.
Ok... well if I can get that bolt broken bolt out then maybe we have something here. I just figured that since I have a case sitting right here I would just easily swap the shaft and gear over and be done and put it all back together. Not so I guess.
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  #36  
Old 10-01-2017, 10:06 PM
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Ok... well if I can get that bolt broken bolt out then maybe we have something here. I just figured that since I have a case sitting right here I would just easily swap the shaft and gear over and be done and put it all back together. Not so I guess.
No, that's not necessary. Plus, if you do, you have to reset the pinion depth. You may need to order shims to do that if the two you have don't work. Lots more trouble than it is worth when all you need to do is remove a broken bolt. If you had asked first before jumping in, we could have saved you all the work you did, and you would have had the bolt out already. As many times as you have done that (jumping in without really knowing what you were doing) I would think you would have learned to ask first by now.
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  #37  
Old 10-02-2017, 07:44 AM
V30crewcab V30crewcab is offline
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make sure you heat up the broken bolt good, to release the locktite. otherwise it may damage the case trying to get it out. I had one I had to tig weld back up and redrill.
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  #38  
Old 10-02-2017, 07:45 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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How do I get #12 out? This one is making me mad. I can’t get it out.

Attachment 87812
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
With a pair of these..... A tool made just for removing that style of snap ring.
Attachment 87813
What J-Mech said.
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File Type: jpg IMG_2189.jpg (18.9 KB, 104 views)
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  #39  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:45 AM
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I found a set of Craftsman lock ring pliers that look just like those, and they're $15. I'll give those a try tonight. Thanks!

Hey J-Mech, what I have learned is to not ask so many questions and to do my own research and jump into projects before asking questions, which I did on this project. I either ask too many questions or not enough questions. I can't win!
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  #40  
Old 10-02-2017, 09:10 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Hey J-Mech, what I have learned is to not ask so many questions and to do my own research and jump into projects before asking questions, which I did on this project. I either ask too many questions or not enough questions. I can't win!
I'll just let any comments I have as a response go..... No. You can't win.

One question:
Did you read the service manual on ring gear and pinion removal and installation/ set up? Did it cover how to set pinion depth and ring gear backlash? Are you familiar with that process?
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