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#31
08-11-2016, 08:27 AM
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I trust my Fluke IR gun but to be 99.9% I paint a flat black target to get an accurate reading.
New rad, cap, fan and thermostat with good hoses and ignition....only thing left is flow through the block. Have you IR'd the block while it is running? Good one Tim, you got us thinking? 
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction 
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#32
08-11-2016, 02:04 PM
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If you can see water circulating it's possible something else is causing the issue. What about point gap, spark plug gap, timing, or valves not adjusted quite right? All of these can cause overheating.
__________________
Preserving history... one Cub at a time.
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#33
08-11-2016, 03:54 PM
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Had a old Massey Ferguson that water flow all seemed good all mechanical and electrical ended up being water flow down one side of engine block. Removed Welch plugs one at a time replacing as we went to find where blockage was. Just a thought.
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#34
08-11-2016, 04:38 PM
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Are you sure the thermostat is in correctly? Seen this many times.... and I've even done it a couple times. Spring should be in the block. Even if you don't think it may be wrong, check it anyway.
Also, Ford had a 172 gas and a 172 diesel. Maybe they overhauled it with the wrong parts? Happened to me once. Had a diesel engine that was a dual fuel (available in both gas and diesel) and they sent me the pistons for a gas engine by mistake. Being a diesel it didn't want to start.... but if you have diesel pistons in a gas, it would definitely run, but would have excessive compression, which could cause excess heat. Only way to know is to take the head off.
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#35
08-11-2016, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
After many years they rotted out and needed to be replaced because they would over heat if not replaced. Remembering the last flathead in cars was in '59 but they continued production for farm/industrial use another 15 years or so. My old model 72 sp massey, was a Chrysler Flathead, you could wear them out, but not kill them. much simpler days then.
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#36
08-11-2016, 07:04 PM
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I'll toss out a couple possibilities, Put the bulb for the gauge in a pan of the stove and see if the gauge is accurate, next I wonder if the block has crud built up in it or if it sat open do you have a mouse nest plugging it up.
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#37
08-11-2016, 09:03 PM
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So here's what we did today. Suspecting something may be plugging up the water jackets we pulled the rad hoses and the thermostat and ran water through the block with a hose, we also did it to the new rad and both appeared to flow just fine. The water came out nice and clean with no chunks of anything in it, after that we filled it up with water and block/rad cleaner and let it run for a half hour till it was good and hot. Once it cooled we drained it and filled it back up with antifreeze, we also replaced the green/red temp gauge with a brand new one that actually shows the temp. We ran it for about an hour and it never went above 213°, not sure if that would be enough to put the correct gauge into the red or not.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
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#39
08-11-2016, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
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#40
08-11-2016, 09:56 PM
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I'll toss this out just because. It wasn't a tractor but it was a Ford.
We replaced the water pump on a 6 cyl mustang, filled the radiator and it got hot. Checked and checked and finally found out something strange, at least to us. We had to remove the top rad hose and fill the block from the top, replaced the hose, filled the radiator and it worked wonderfully. I have no idea why but that's what we had to do. Good luck.
__________________
Randy Cubs: 71, 72, 127, 149, 1440, 2186 and 1864 John Deere 110 round fender John Deere 140 H3 Sears: GTV16
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