ACR question - Page 4

J-Mech · #31 05-12-2016, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

According to some posters in a thread at this Wheel Horse site there is a difference in the valve tappets so you may need more than just the cam.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic...181-camshafts/

Quick trip to a parts book debunks that. They are the same on all motors. No difference in length, same part number.

ironman · #32 05-12-2016, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Quick trip to a parts book debunks that. They are the same on all motors. No difference in length, same part number.

A quick trip to the Kohler Service manual for K Series engines, Section 12 (Reassembly), Page 12.2 says:

"Install Tappets and Camshaft

Install the intake valve tappet and exhaust valve tappet into crankcase.
(intake valve tappet towards bearing plate; exhaust valve tappet towards PTO side of crankcase.)
NOTE: On K161 and K181 ACR engines, install the shorter tappet in the exhaust bore guide. Intake and exhaust tappets are interchangeable on other models."

J-Mech · #33 05-12-2016, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

A quick trip to the Kohler Service manual for K Series engines, Section 12 (Reassembly), Page 12.2 says:

"Install Tappets and Camshaft

Install the intake valve tappet and exhaust valve tappet into crankcase.
(intake valve tappet towards bearing plate; exhaust valve tappet towards PTO side of crankcase.)
NOTE: On K161 and K181 ACR engines, install the shorter tappet in the exhaust bore guide. Intake and exhaust tappets are interchangeable on other models."

This is a K241. Not a K161/181

ironman · #34 05-12-2016, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

This is a K241. Not a K161/181

Then I guess that the parts book and the service manual, and you and I agree that the tappets are the same as long as it is K241.

J-Mech · #35 05-12-2016, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

Then I guess that the parts book and the service manual, and you and I agree that the tappets are the same as long as it is K241.

I should have said all 241 (and above) motors. I guess I was pretty inclusive when I said "all motors".

clint larson · #36 06-15-2016, 11:01 PM

Finally getting around to working on this. Picked up another cam with the ACR. Here's a couple pics , ACR on left, timing advance on right.

clint larson · #37 06-15-2016, 11:02 PM

Another picture

suburban man · #38 06-17-2016, 12:22 PM

I am having the same issues and just found this thread.....is swapping the cam out really required? I figured once timing was set thru TDC method it would be ok...People ran my Kohler 40 years without ACR ....Please let Us know how this works out I am curious.

clint larson · #39 06-18-2016, 01:51 AM

Just got it all put back together tonight, fired right off, starts so easy now, I couldn't be happier.

Suburban man, I responded in your thread also. I've had this 100 for about three years now and always ran great, just very hard starting, like 10-15 seconds of cranking to get it started. After I rebuilt carb, set valves, set timing, tried different coil, condenser, spark plug, there was still no change. After much searching I discovered the cam deal.

If you want to switch them you'll have to pretty much disassemble the motor, I did leave the valves in, had the intention of taking them out but discovered that the motor had been rebuilt and valves looked really good, just make sure both valves are closed when removing the cam, and make sure you pay attention if there are any shims on end of cam. What I replaced, other than cam, gaskets for oil pan, head, carb, breather(2), points cover, cam cover, and both crank seals. I reused the gasket for the bearing plate cause partstree.com said they were no longer available. Don't know if I should have got new tappets or not but I did put assembly lube on cam lobes when I installed it, I guess time will tell, but as of now I'm happy, I have five cubs and my 100 is my favorite. Good luck and hollar if you have questions, many on this forum with more experience than me but will help if I can. Clint

suburban man · #40 06-18-2016, 05:38 AM

Clint I went back out yesterday after reading your thread, retimed unit using the T mark on flywheel, set ponits at .020 static. the unit cranked better and eventually fired up!!!! I then put a timing light on it and found the S mark at the upper edge of the hole barely visible. Every time I tried adjusting it down it would die. I decided to see if it would mow and how power was. I had never mowed this tractor was given to me and although I had it running it would drive but no power to engage blades. I'm very impressed with the power this little tank has....I purposely loaded it down cutting uphill a couple times and it just crawled up without noticable drop in RPM. So the timing is barely visible in the upper edge of the hole when running...seems to like it there. I mowed about 45 minutes. I waited about a half hour to cool down and it was slow cranking when I went out. I put the jump start battery on it and it fired right up. So at this point I am going to try a higher cranking amperage battery and larger cables. The cables do get warm when cranking longer periods. It seems to fire right up with the jump pack telling me I need CCA. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread!