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  #31  
Old 03-18-2015, 09:54 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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I manage a parts store, electrical stuff is non-returnable as in no cash refund, however an exchange for another( if faulty) is no problem. Cadet regulator is VR-220 in Standard ignition parts.
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  #32  
Old 03-19-2015, 06:34 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Mark:

I like the idea of "remoting" the V/R for testing and adjustment.
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  #33  
Old 03-19-2015, 11:27 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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If your going to go to all that trouble to remote mount the V/R, why not just set up a "test bench" with a S/G and an electric motor? Then just take the V/R off and hook it up to the test bench and set it up. 3600 RPM 2HP electric motor, basket pulley, belt and a S/G..... a couple wires...

You could even use the test bench to test S/G's.
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  #34  
Old 03-19-2015, 11:29 AM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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it is more fun the udder way, engine running and shaking...just takes up more room.

Here is a link to the v/r....

http://www.ruiter.ca/mc/info/PDFs/1R-116.pdf
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  #35  
Old 03-19-2015, 05:12 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
Mark:

I like the idea of "remoting" the V/R for testing and adjustment.
In all actuality, it is such a ridiculously stupid thing, I really am a little embarrassed about it. Although, I'm not exactly sure why.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
If your going to go to all that trouble to remote mount the V/R, why not just set up a "test bench" with a S/G and an electric motor? Then just take the V/R off and hook it up to the test bench and set it up. 3600 RPM 2HP electric motor, basket pulley, belt and a S/G..... a couple wires...

You could even use the test bench to test S/G's.
All in due time...
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  #36  
Old 03-20-2015, 10:44 PM
C5rider C5rider is offline
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Default Just got done doing the same thing.
I had the S/G rebuilt on my 70, and when I started it, the digital meter showed 15.6v. I like to see 13.8-14v with my tractors. That seems to work well without any battery issues.

Some regulators have a screw inside that allows you to adjust that spring. Others simply bend a tab to give the spring less/more tension on the points. Shouldn't be too terribly difficult to do. The one on my 70 has a screw for the field coil points and for the cut-out points. Our Originals require the spring tab to be bent accordingly.

Is the voltage regulator up by the headlights on a 149 like it is on my 70? I used a needle-nose pliers to adjust the spring tension while someone else held the meter on the battery terminal and "A" stud on the S/G.
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  #37  
Old 03-20-2015, 10:59 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Is the voltage regulator up by the headlights on a 149 like it is on my 70?
No, it's under the seat next to the battery.
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  #38  
Old 03-20-2015, 11:14 PM
C5rider C5rider is offline
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Is the voltage regulator up by the headlights on a 149 like it is on my 70?

No, it's under the seat next to the battery.
Ah! Thanks. Wasn't sure, but I am sure that makes it a bit more difficult to access and work on.
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