105 restoration

[charlie105]

Just to make it clear to me; On a 105 hydro, is the trans vent a plug,or a screen,and how do you clear it ?Is it removeable? Thanks, Steve

[steved]

Charlie, I don't know anything about the vent plug other than I made sure not to paint it. Maybe someone here will answer you.

It's been a busy family holiday and now I'm ready to finish the 105. Hopefully run the engine this week. Can anyone give me some pointers on applying the decal to the dash tin? It's from Maple Hunters. The tin has some raised, embossed areas. I have a heat gun. I read somewhere about applying heat but cannot find that thread. If anyone has any tips or words of caution, I would welcome it before I make a mess!

[snoel]

That's gona' sure be a pretty Cub!

[RLemke]

I am curious about that dash decal as well. I've been contemplating getting one for my 124 . Does anyone here have experience applying one? How did you strip/clean the dash to prepare for application?

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Don't paint the cylinder head though.

I would also suggest not painting the hydro. It's aluminum and really doesn't need paint. Also, cools better if it's not.

Good advice IMO

[steved]

I thought I would pass on some info on putting the decal on the dash tin. I first cleaned the tin with a scotchbrite pad and wiped it down with denatured alcohol. I applied the decal the best I could and it looked terrible. Every spec of foreign matter left on the tin showed up. I ordered another dash decal( great people at Maple Hunter), removed the old decal, used 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sanded the entire tin over and over, wiped with DNA again. I used scissors and trimmed the paper to the decal and used a razor blade to cut out the openings. The next part took two people to do. I pressed and formed the decal to the tin, lined everything up(throttle opening was off about an 1/8"), 2nd person taped the upper right hand corner(notice its flat for about 6 inches), sort of made a hinge. Unhinged the tin and decal, peeled about 2 inches back on the decal, lined up the top edge, pressed the decal down, one person pressed the decal and the other continued to pull the backing from under the decal. Used a razor blade to trim the decal where it overhung the edges and holes. Trimmed the throttle opening to match the tin so the amount of tin showing was the same. For an old tin I think it came out great. Maybe this will help some of you guys.

[Rmowl]

That looks amazing! Gaining a lot of info for resto of my 102, if it doesn't get farmed out. Nice work!

[steved]

Thanks for the compliment! Now for the next problem. Last week I got the engine all dialed in. Idle to WOT, approximately 1200 to 3600 rpms within the limits of the dash lever. Went home satisfied. Came back the next morning and a large puddle of oil on the floor. It seemed to be the oil pan or camshaft cover. I tightened up the oil pan(35 ft/#s) and installed new camshaft gasket(was not replaced in rebuild because I never removed cover). Reinstalled engine Saturday, reset cables and ran it. This a.m. large puddle again. Just pulled engine again, expecting it to be a leak on the oil pan and planned on installing new gasket. But there is an oil trail coming down from the valve cover. It doesn't appear to be leaking at the oil pan. The leak only shows up well after it has run. Both valve cover gaskets are new. Does it hold enough oil in there to let this much oil drain on the floor? I do have the hole on the inner cover in the down position. Should I permatex both sides of both gaskets and reinstall?

[olds45512]

i believe the decal is meant to replace the tin not be put on it, as someone whos done a lot of sign work i can tell you that putting decals on a textured surface is a short live thing as air and dirt get in behind it it will start to come off.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by steved

The leak only shows up well after it has run. Both valve cover gaskets are new. Does it hold enough oil in there to let this much oil drain on the floor? I do have the hole on the inner cover in the down position. Should I permatex both sides of both gaskets and reinstall?

Basically shouldn't hold oil in there at all.

Two question:
~Where is the reed valve? Was it just removed in the pic?
~Is the drain hole in the block clear? Make sure it isn't obstructed.

As a note: I use adhesive to "glue" the gaskets on to the back of the inner cover, and on the back of the outer cover. NO SILICONE. I use weatherstrip adhesive. Those gaskets CANNOT get oil on them before installation. Make sure everything is dry, or they will leak. Once compressed, they are fine.